Wine of the Month
-August-
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von Schleinitz
Pinot Noir Rosé 2007
-Mosel-
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Ah, the good old summertime. A time when we love to be outdoors, enjoying the beach, barbecues, and picnics. There is nothing more pleasurable, more perfect, than a nice glass of Rosé to enjoy with the cuisine of summer.
This gorgeous, copper, strawberry-hued Rosé from von Schleinitz is one of those beauties that personifies the perfect summer wine. With it's wonderful scent of sun-warmed red fruits and flavors that are filled with strawberry, rhubarb and black cherry, this lovely wine just sings of summer refreshment. Made from Pinot Noir grapes grown on predominantly slate soil, there's a whiff of minerality that accentuates the wine's flavor components, adding more zest and vigor. It's a beauty, and there's no better time to enjoy it than right now.
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Welcome. This website is devoted to the great wine estates of Germany, whose wines are available in the United States. It is the objective of owner, Eric Litchfield, to provide current information on all aspects of the German wine trade, with informative tasting notes, vintage reports, links to other German wine websites, and assist the viewer in purchasing wines of interest from the fine wine shops listed on the Wine Shops for Wine Lovers page. It is our goal to make GermanWineEstates The Site for German Wine Lovers.
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GermanWineEstates - Wine Club is a free service allowing members to purchase the GermanWineEstates Wine of the Month and other fine German and Austrian wines at substantially reduced prices. The GermanWineEstates - Wine Club Wine Shop features the GWE - Wine of the Month as well as a selection of other fine German and Austrian wines which you may purchase at membership discounted pricing. Buy as little as one bottle or as much as you like. There is absolutely no obligation to buy, so purchase what you want, when you wish.
To become a member, please click on the following link:
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Situation Report
Barometer of Success in the Wine Business Rises with Riesling in Some Markets
Information supplied by the VDP
-1 August 2007-
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The German wine industry reports impressive sales figures for the preceding year. German wine is currently in vogue, particularly Riesling, and the premium wine category posted the lion’s share of profits in 2007 thereby remaining the driving force behind sales developments. The 198 members of Germany’s Prädikat Wine Estates (VDP) could also draw a good balance in line with this trend, both in the domestic market and abroad. Thanks to these profits, estates have been able to make numerous investments that will help secure not only their own future, but also that of top-quality wines in Germany.
The Prädikat Wine Estates: Sales Structure in 2007
Due to the small size of the crop in 2006, VDP members could only partially meet demand in 2007. As such, sales volume remained at 35 million bottles, as in 2006. The average price per bottle rose slightly, to Euro 8,90 (2006: Euro 8,50). Export volume reached only 80% of the preceding year, but as VDP president Steffen Christmann points out, this, too, is related to the small size of the 2006 vintage, whereby domestic orders received priority over those from abroad. “I expect that we’ll see a return to increased export sales in 2008 when delayed shipments can be fulfilled.”
Domestic Market
The market for top-quality wines in Germany continues to develop on a positive note. The popularity of Riesling is no longer something new with the customers of the finest estates, yet still piques the curiosity of many wine enthusiasts since the varietal continues to generate positive press, motivate the specialty trade, and appeal to dynamic chefs – target groups that account for 50% of VDP wine sales. Regardless of color, white or red, “made in Germany” is in.
According to the Nürnberg-based Association for Consumer Research (GfK), 24% of domestic purchases take place in specialty wine shops or on site at estates, equivalent to a sales share of 40%. The average price per liter? per bottle? via these distribution channels is Euro 4,89 compared with Euro 2,55 in the grocery sector.
Export Market
With the exception of England, all European markets clearly showed indications of growth for VDP estates. Demand in the USA is also good, but the poor Euro-to-dollar exchange rate is having a negative impact. The Japanese market requires patience and perseverence. In general, VDP estates are becoming more involved in export markets and expect to see positive results from these efforts within the coming years.
Investments
Diverse investments in numerous estates bear witness to the positive side effects of the renaissance of top-quality German wines. Tangible profits from improved sales have enabled many estates to finally implement modernizations that have been “on hold” for several years. All efforts are investments designed to improve quality.
• Cellar storage facilities for fermentaton and aging are being upgraded – whether large oak casks, stainless steel tanks or small barrique casks – in order to provide options for very individual fermentation and aging. In their quest to improve wine quality, growers are also striving to optimize grape processing and fermentation procedures.
• No less important are investments in the vineyards. Steep sites are not only labor-intensive to work, but also require a great deal of funds to repair (stone terraces, for example) and maintain (combat erosion). Establishing and maintaining paths to the vineyards, particularly those with difficult access, require considerable financial resources. Yet these are the sites that are synonymous with great terroir conditions and top-quality wines. Since VDP member estates have holdings in a large number of these sites that yield Germany’s finest wines, they have a great responsibility and interest in vineyard maintenance.
• Enormous investments are also being made in estate buildings – many of which are being converted into vinotheks (wine shops/tasting rooms) and attractive rooms for events. Wine tourism (guest rooms at wine estates – spend your vacation here) is another area of increasing importance.
• Last but not least: funds are being invested to employ more people to professionally handle the production of first-class wines, many of which are organic.
In closing, Steffen Christman sums up: “All the years of striving for quality improvement are finally having an impact in an almost ideal marketplace. The qualitative and economic success of the VDP estates is exemplary in the German wine industry. It is finally enabling estates to invest in their own future – and in the future of top-quality wines in Germany.”
Contrasting the New 2007 Vintage German Wines with Those from 2006
Article written by Nancy Deprez
-1 June 2008-
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It is now May of 2008, and I have finally been able to collect my thoughts and impressions of the newly arriving 2007 vintage German wines compared with the 2006 vintage which is still currently on the market. To fuel my research, I have had the privilege of tasting the brand new 2007 vintage German Rieslings with several notable winemakers and estate proprietors, namely Robert Eymael of Mönchhof Estate in the Mosel, Fritz Hasselbach of Gunderloch in the Rheinhessen, Dorothee Zilliken of Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in the Saar, and Stefan Gerhard of Stefan Gerhard Estate in the Rheingau. As well, I have tasted 2007 barrel and tank samples of Wegeler, Schnaitmann, Kunstler, and Von Buhl with importer Rudi Wiest of Rudi Wiest Selections back in February.
The 2007 vintage in Germany has been described as a long and glorious growing season, with exceptionally early budbreak in May following an unseasonably hot April. The entire growing season was near ideal, a warm summer followed by a cool autumn, culminating in a mostly rain-free harvest season which did not rush picking. Good harvest weather allowed for multiple passes through the vineyard to select exactly what the winemakers were looking for, from dry styles to Kabinett-level wines to later harvest styles.
The 2007 harvest was such a contrast to the previous year, when there was a mad dash in the vineyard, with pickers working double shifts in a race against time, in order to save grapes from rot. Botrytis spread quickly through the vineyards, concentrating the grape must and giving the final wines that delicious and rich honeyed flavor that we so love in our Auslesen and noble sweet wines. However, in 2006, Kabinetts and even Spätlese wines were limited due to the scarcity of clean, non-botrytized fruit, and total yields were down 50% from other vintages as so many grapes were lost and selected out when they didn't make the cut.
In contrast, 2007 yields were good, with plenty of clean, non-botrytized fruit allowing for plenty of dry wine production (which prefers clean fruit) and all Pradikat levels and styles. Some observers may be confused when the statement is made that higher yields and higher quality is seen in 2007 Germany, because so often in the press, low yields are equated with high quality, but this is not always the case. In 2007, it is not so much a situation of high yields, but normal yields of good fruit with optimal physiologic ripeness, balanced acidity, and flavorful minerality. These were attained through that prolonged, cool growing season which allowed for slow development, plenty of time to extract minerals from the soil and to develop fruity acids.
And now, onto the aroma and flavor profile of the wines. The 2007s seem to be winning many fans with their bright, fresh aromas and wonderfully balanced palates. Overall, the wines exhibit a fruity and layered perfume that many find more captivating than 2006s, which, in direct comparison, have more muted and denser noses. On the palate, 2007s exhibit succulence from good acidity buffered with clean fruit. There is zip and elegance. The 2006s on the palate exhibit more richness, sweetness, and weight, more honeyed nuances, sometimes with an acid structure that includes lime, but more often with dried apricot and red fruits. The 2007s often exhibit more focus and precision - more cut.
There will be much excitement in the coming months with the 2007 vintage German wines rolling in, the first ones already on wine store shelves, the next wave currently on the water, and the vast majority of them still awaiting bottling and being released in the summer and fall. I admit to looking forward to having all the 2007s like everyone else. But at the same time, I am confident that the 2006s will still be popular, as they have been for the last 10 months, delivering so much in the way of drinking pleasure, a vintage with rich, opulent flavors and great density filling the mouth and staying there for a superb, long finish.
Furthermore, the 2006s are such relative bargains as they were on our shores prior to the dollar trading at all-time lows against the Euro. I know I'll still be buying 2006s and drinking them now and putting them away for the future, when they will lose some of their baby fat and show off all the character they have underneath the sweet fruit.
In summary, I'll personally be enjoying great German wines from both of these fine vintages, and embracing the characteristics that I love in each. To be sure, these two vintages in Germany make it fun to vive la difference!
Nancy Deprez is the German wine manager for the specialty wine retailer, The Wine Country and the writer for the blog Nancy On Wine.
Riesling Tastings to be Held Around the US
Information supplied by Wines of Germany
-7 May 2008-
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The following events are part of a joint program of Wines of Germany and the European Union:
Riesling & Co. Tasting 2008
Please join us for an unparalleled tasting experience as we welcome top winemakers from Germany, as well as Austria and Alsace. Be the first to experience over 200 wines from the exceptional 2007 vintage.
San Francisco
Monday, May 12, 2008
Spruce Restaurant
By Invitation Only
Chicago
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Powerhouse Restaurant
By Invitation Only
New York
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Tribeca Rooftop
2 Desbrosses Street
New York, NY 10013
1:00-5:00 p.m. Trade and Media Only
6:00-9:00 p.m. Consumer Tasting Event
2007 Vintage Report
Information supplied by Wines of Germany
-1 April 2008-
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Thanks to early bud burst and optimal autumn weather, German wine grapes had an unusually long growing season in 2007. This year’s harvest was relatively unhurried and took place over several weeks. Grape musts and young wines are showing well, with a fabulous wealth of aromas, high ripeness and extract levels, and a well-integrated, harmonious – yet marked – acidity. After last year’s small harvest, growers are also very satisfied with the size of this year’s crop: in all, estimated to be ca. 10.5 – 11 million hectoliters. A résumé of this year’s harvest in the 13 wine-growing regions, compiled by the German Wine Institute in Mainz, follows.
Vintage 2007 – Regional Conditions
In the Ahr, the Frühburgunder (an early-ripening Pinot Noir) harvest began in late August and ended with the Riesling harvest during the second week of October. Yields – approaching 100 hl/ha – were quite satisfactory, and for this small red wine region, above average in size. The prognosis is for an overall quantity of 54,000 hl. Yields were higher for Portugieser, lower for Früh- and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Must weights ranged mostly between 70 and 100 degrees Oechsle; Spätburgunder, in particular, achieved high must weights. Thanks to ideal weather conditions during the ripening period, the grapes were able to develop high extracts. The ratio of quantity to quality is described as optimal. The crop was healthy and there were no problems with fermentation. Vintage 2007 Weissherbst (rosé) will be bottled shortly to meet the high demand for this category.
In Baden, the harvest ended in mid-October and Baden vintners view 2007 as a very good vintage. The harvest itself and its results are described as a “dream of a harvest.” Equally wonderful were the weather conditions – a golden October – calm autumn weather with cool nights and sunny days that fostered the development of a spectrum of aromas. Wine lovers can look forward to outstanding wines from the 2007 vintage. According to a local wine-growers’ advisor: “Across the board, regardless of variety, the aromas and color of these wines are extraordinary. We haven’t seen the likes of this for quite some time.” Not only were there impressive must weights for Spätburgunder and Riesling, but also specialties, such as Gewürztraminer or Gutedel, showed well. After the first tastings of the young wines, cellar masters are describing the vintage as remarkable for its grandiose wealth of aromas, as well as its perceptible, yet well-integrated, wine acidity. They expect red wines with great depth of color and longevity. Not only is the high quality welcome, but also the quantity harvested – to help alleviate shortages after several small crops. In all, Baden’s 16,000 ha yielded a crop of ca. 1.2 million hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha – more than in 2006.
The harvest in Franken started in early September – but growers with patience were rewarded with a sunny October. After a damp summer, very selective harvesting was necessary in order to achieve (ultimately) quite satisfactory results. The first Müller-Thurgau wines of 2007 are aromatic, fresh and fruity; Silvaner, another important varietal in Franken, is showing a fine, elegant note. Only Bacchus grapes had a lower-than-average yield, due to sunburn. About three quarters of the wine musts reached Prädikat wine levels; the average must weight was a remarkably high 87 degrees Oechsle. The region’s 6,000 ha of vineyards yielded somewhat more than half a million hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha. This is a seven percent increase in quantity over the year before, which will help replenish low stocks prior to the harvest.
The Hessische Bergstrasse, Germany’s second smallest wine region, is known above all for its Rieslings, but other varieties are at home there, too. At the end of August, for example, the Frühburgunder harvest began. In mid-October, after the Riesling harvest, the last Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were gathered. Growers willing to postpone the start of their harvest were able to achieve considerably higher qualities, particularly with their Riesling grapes. For the first time, red Riesling was harvested. This rarity is believed to be a forerunner of the white Riesling we know today. Spätburgunder must weights were remarkably high; Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) required a very selective harvest and yields were disappointingly low. Overall, the crop was a good 35,000 hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha – significantly more than in 2006, when quantities barely met supply. For this reason, the first bottlings of 2007 are expected on the market in early November.
The harvest in the Mittelrhein began in mid-September with a few early-ripening varieties, but the main harvest didn’t end until the last week of October. Both quantity and quality are remarkable in this Riesling region. The overall yield is somewhat above the long-term average and considerably above the year before. In all, some 40,000 hl are expected, equal to a yield of 90 hl/ha. Riesling, in particular, benefited from the long growing season, with optimal proportions of sugar (average of 100 degrees Oechsle) to acidity. Red grapes, such as Spätburgunder, were also harvested in a healthy state, at up to 100 degrees Oechsle, with a slightly higher acidity than the year before.
Due to the northerly location of the region and the significance of the late-ripening varietal Riesling, it comes as no surprise that the Mosel growers are among the last to start harvesting. Müller-Thurgau and Elbling (ancient white variety, cultivated primarily in the upper Mosel, along the border with Luxembourg) were picked in the second half of September; the Riesling harvest began in October and – in estates with holdings in steep sites, where harvesting can only be done by hand – lasted the entire month. Ideal weather, with mostly dry, sunny autumn days as well as cool (at times cold) nights, made for a stress-free harvest. These weather conditions enabled growers to harvest their crop at an optimal ripeness level. The 2007 wines from the valleys of the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer are expected to be particularly rich in minerals and extracts. Steep-site Riesling grapes had considerable time to absorb minerals from the slate soil – ultimately reflected in a wine’s aroma and flavor. This year’s growing season (the time between blossoming and harvest) was particularly long: 100 days is the norm; in 2007: 120 to 150 days. Consumers can expect well-structured wines with straightforward fruit aromas/flavors. Must weights primarily reached Prädikat levels, often 100 degrees Oechsle and above. The region’s nearly 9,000 ha yielded an estimated 925,000 hl and thus, some 85,000 hl more than in 2006.
The Müller-Thurgau harvest in mid-September marked the start of the harvest in the Nahe, ending with the Riesling harvest in the second half of October. Patience was rewarded – particularly for Riesling, which achieved must weights of 90 to 95 degrees Oechsle. Cool October nights slowed down a reduction in acidity in the white wine varietals, and the young wines have a harmonious ratio of ripeness to crispness. Red varietals, too, profited from a later harvest: Spätburgunder grapes reached Oechsle levels well over 80 degrees. In all, a considerable amount of Prädikatswein is expected. Yields: 100 hl/ha – good news for Nahe growers. An estimated 430,00 hl were harvested – a fourth more than in the preceding year.
Earlier than usual – mid-August – some growers in the Pfalz harvested grapes for Federweisser (fermenting grape juice) and the last of the new wine was sold at the end of October. The harvest in the Pfalz usually takes place over months – unlike the stressful and hectic circumstances a year ago. In contrast to the year before, this year’s sunny autumn led to a considerable increase in must weights for both white and red varietals, which in turn, has led to an exceptionally high niveau of red and white wines. Acidity values are higher than in the “esteemed” vintage 2003 – particularly good news for Riesling wines. The harvest was relatively large – 2.5 million hl – and is welcome to meet demand. Quality is also well above average. Growers had time to harvest at the optimal time of ripeness, taking into consideration the various growth periods of different varietals, and could fill their portfolios accordingly. Consumers can expect a great selection of very good wines at all quality levels.
Rheingau growers began harvesting in mid-September, with young wines showing a prominent acidity. A month later, the Rieslings were more harmonious and riper, with higher must weights. Export-oriented wineries that specialize in lusciously sweet wines harvested until the end of October. Already in October, a traditional wine estate achieved a record must weight of more than 300 degrees Oechsle. In some vineyards, grapes are still hanging – in hopes of an Eiswein harvest. Under ideal autumn weather conditions, every grower could harvest exactly what was needed for his/her portfolio. The end of the growing season was particularly favorable for the most important grape variety of the Rheingau, Riesling. It’s said to be a “typical” Riesling vintage. The region’s most important red variety, Spätburgunder, also achieved high ripeness levels at the hand of patient wine-growers. Growers welcome the above-average crop – many a wine on a price list was sold out. The yield was above 80 hl/ha, in all at least a total of 250,000 hl. The excellent quality of vinage 2007 is also reflected by increased demand for bulk wines.
In Germany’s largest wine-growing region, Rheinhessen, this year’s harvest is described as quite good, often compared with the 2002 and 2004 vintages. Many a grower is not sparing with superlatives, such as “wonderful qualities after an ideal autumn” or “sensational vintage.” Grapes were picked throughout September, but it was primarily the grapes harvested in October that achieved the above-average ripeness levels that are the hallmark of this vintage. As such, the growing season for some vines stretched over 140 days rather than the necessary absolute minimum of 100 days. This was optimal for Riesling, which showed its best with an average must weight of 85 degrees Oechsle, as well as for Rheinhessen’s other traditional varietals, e.g. Silvaner (80 degrees Oechsle) and Pinots, which for the most part, were harvested with 90 degrees Oechsle. Warm days and cold nights yielded elegant wines with brisk acidity, fruitiness, and an expressive play of aromas. Harvest yields are estimated at 115 hl/ha, well above average, for a total yield of 2.9 million hl.
Although the vineyards suffered damage due to weather conditions – late frost in May, sunburn in July – the size of the crop in Saale-Unstrut is about that of last year’s good level. About 42,000 hl are expected, or a third more than usual. Since the development of the grapes was ahead of schedule, growers were able to start harvesting in early September. Some estates waited until the second half of October. The crop was healthy and posed no problems for cellar masters. Thanks to the long growing season, the wines are quite aromatic, very fruity, and marked by a lively acidity. With regard to quantity and quality: a good to very good vintage.
In Sachsen, more than two weeks earlier than usual, the harvest began in August, with the region’s early-ripening specialty, the rare Goldriesling (a Riesling x Courtillier Musqué crossing). For the most part, the harvest had ended by mid-October, not least because several rainy days prompted growers to quicken their pace. A primarily healthy crop was brought in, before the damp weather could lead to rot. Ripeness and acidity levels were, respectively, satisfactory and quite good – this bodes particularly well for Gewürztraminer. Overall, the wines of Germany’s smallest wine-growing region – less than 500 ha/1,235 acres – are rarities and regularly sold out, even at relatively high prices. Despite the good quantity harvested in 2007, this situation is not likely to change. Estimated quantity: 20,000 hl.
The harvest in Württemberg – a six-week period of picking that ended in the second half of October – yielded good qualities and a marketable quantity. Yields are estimated to be 110 hl/ha, with an overall quantity of 1.2 to 1.3 million hl. Württemberg’s strength lies in the red wine sector (ca. 75 percent of the harvest), with varieties such as Trollinger, Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier), and Lemberger (Blaufränkisch). Yields for Trollinger and Lemberger were slightly above average, whereas yields for early-ripening white varieties, such as Kerner or Müller-Thurgau, fell short of the long-term average. The Riesling crop, however, was larger than last year and will help alleviate supply problems for the region’s most important white varietal. The overall harvesting period was able to be extended, thanks to mild weather, influenced by high pressure. In addition, this fostered both an increase in must weights and the development of ripe aromas – reflected in the first bottlings of white wines of the new vintage.
GermanWineEstates Viewer Statistics for 2007
A Summary of Annual Viewer Readership
By Eric H. Litchfield, President, GermanWineEstates.com Inc.
-1 March 2008-
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GermanWineEstates displayed impressive growth in viewer readership for the year 2007, reaching record levels in several categories which the website uses for statistical analysis. Two of the most relevant gauges used for audience awareness were up significantly. These are number of viewers and unique readership. The annual number of visitors increased by a factor of 66% over the 2006 level and unique readership surpassed the 2006 figure by 47%.
Our vistors came from 73 different countries, with the United Kingdom, Germany, Canada, Australia and Italy representing the top five foreign countries. I am also happy to report that GermanWineEstates maintains a high level of returning viewers from around the world which signifies that the information found on these pages offers information which has proven to be useful in the various aspects of German wine appreciation.
I wish to thank all those who have enjoyed their visit to GWE in 2007, and hope that in 2008, the website will provide more interesting facts and information about German wine, making the GermanWineEstates The Site for German Wine Lovers.
2007 Vintage Report at Domdechant Werner
Information supplied by Dr. Franz Werner Michel, Domdechant Werner
-10 January 2008-
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I am pleased to report from DOMDECHANT WERNER again about a blessed Riesling vintage 2007:The quality is excellent and the quantity good. I am grateful for the gracious gift of nature.
The weather was exceptional: Early spring with heat in April, very early blosseming, then cold and wet in May, followed by a heat-wave in July and finally a wonderful autumn. Thanks to a very careful pre-selection of all damaged grapes, I harvested ripe and healthy grapes, which give clean and brilliant Riesling. The must-weight was predominantely between 90° and 100°, which is typical for the Spätlese and Auslese level. The acidity is round and mature.The first degustation of young wines show elegance, fruitiness and fascinating minerality with balanced acidity.
The vintage 2007 will include the broad spectrum from charming “Riesling Classic” through successful Kabinett, fine Spätlese up to wonderful Auslese and the famous “Erstes Gewächs”, toped by a rare Beerenauslese.The range includes the modern dry style as well the traditional sweeter Riesling.
Vintage Year for Prädikatswein Estates
Vintage 2007 surprisingly good year for German viticulture and a very promising gustatory experience for wine enthusiasts.
Information supplied by the VDP
-1 January 2008-
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For many of the 200 Prädikatswein wine growing estates in Germany it was the earliest harvest in memory. When the grapes were harvested they had already undergone an unusually long vegetation period, enabling them to mature optimally. And even more importantly, they remained healthy right until the very end of the harvest. Now the aromatic musts are fermenting in the cellars, and Germany's top vintners are very pleased with the result: prickling, fresh estate wine and the finest wine from classified sites promise to provide real revelations and gustatory experiences for wine enthusiasts. The harvest volume is about 30% higher than the previous year but only slightly more than the long-term average of VDP estates, which traditionally concentrate on "quality" instead of "quantity".
Ideal progress of vegetation
Following the premature summer in April, the actual meteorological summer was much wetter than usual, even though the temperatures were average. However, all in all these were ideal, stress-free growth and development conditions for the grapevines. Graf Adelmann (Württemberg): "Although it wasn't a summer for lounging in deckchairs, it turned out to be a surprisingly good year for German winegrowing."
Toni Jost (Mittelrhein) commented: "For the first time in many years no irrigation was necessary. The grapevines remained healthy and productive for a long time, and assimilation was possible until mid-October with a green canopy." The ideal water supply at all times led to a high uptake of minerals in the grapevines - a guarantee for complex wines. Cool temperatures, particularly at night, produce stable fruit acids and delicate aromas in the berries.
The vintners regard the occurrence of new problems which were previously unknown as a challenge - for instance sunburn, which damages the grape skin and hence prevents further maturing. Also pests, such as grape leafhoppers, leaf sucking insects which destroy the leaves, or esca, a fungus that causes the grapevines to die within a few weeks and hence also destroy the potential of old grapevines, have to be controlled. In particular organic winegrowers, who enjoy overproportional representation in VDP, are here faced by special challenges. The estates report that there is up to 20 % damage at the affected vineyards.
Long grape harvest
The grapes ripened as early as they did in 2003, the so-called "once in a thousand years" summer. Consequently the regions began harvesting one to three weeks earlier than usual. However, in contrast to the lightning harvest of the previous year, the "relaxed" harvest lasted for almost 8 weeks, accompanied by good weather. The grapes on the vines were aromatic and healthy, but some ripened at different rates, which meant the vineyards had to be harvested manually in up to four stages. During this selection work the grapes that ripened early had to be harvested and damaged and rotten berries had to be removed to enable the remaining grapes to reach full maturity. Although this amount of work is a matter of course for Prädikatswein wine growing estates, which operate at a very high level and produce excellent wines, it is roughly twice as much work per hectare compared to the effort usually required for manual harvesting.
Grapes that are harvested early, such as Müller-Thurgau and Silvaner, had a very pithy skin and high pectin content this year, which resulted in a low juice extraction. The initially relatively high acid levels perfectly balanced themselves out perfectly during the ripening process. And for good measure an ideal supply of nutrients in the musts ensured a rapid and even fermentation.
Superb range of wines
Hansjörg Rebholz (Palatinate) made an interesting observation: "This year there will be "September and October wines". By the end of September we already had very high sugar values (and high acid values), but the grapes were not "physiologically ripe". They first ripened during the warm and wet weather from October 1st to 3rd. From then onwards the grapes tasted proper and the acid was more normal. From the "October wines" in particular I expect great wines with enormous development potential. Annegret Reh-Gartner, Reichsgraf v. Kesselstatt, emphasized these impressions: "First of all there was a great deal of citrus, but then later cassis, ripe pear and peach."
The musts already have an intensive taste with a very fine hint of fruit acid. This indicates wines with a complex structure. And this is combined with not too high alcohol contents, although many vintners are talking about very good must weights: "Nothing below 95° Oechsle!" enthused Gerhard Gutzler (Rhine-Hesse): "I can imagine the Spätburgunder in five years time - simply delicious with its own powerful and very typical taste. Horst Kolesch, head of the Juliusspital winery in Würzburg, envisages that the big winners of this year's vintage will not just be the various types of Burgundy wines but also Silvaners and Rieslings. And he added: "Today good sites will clearly produce wines a cut above the rest."
Record oechsle levels:
The real icing on the cake for the perfect vintage was the Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese with wonderful fruit acids that had not been possible in many regions for years. Enthusiasts and collectors of these exquisite sweet wines can certainly look forward to the traditional VDP auctions, where the best wines come under the hammer every year. 60 harvesters at the Wegeler estate at the Rothenberg site in Geisenheim managed to gather the tenth highest must weight ever measured in Germany: 21 liters of a highly concentrated Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese with 312 degrees Oechsle. But many VDP winegrowing estates are still gambling with the weather, hoping to crown the vintage collection with a rare ice wine.
Volume, prices & marketing expectations
After the Prädikatswein winegrowing estates were by no means able to cover demand with the extremely small harvest in 2006, this year the yields are 30 % higher compared to the previous year and 7% higher than the long-term average for VDP (65 hl/ha). However, they are still 30 % below the general German average. The classification of the wines is divided into in 50% estate wines, 35% from classified sites and 15% wines from ERSTE LAGE sites.
The Prädikatswein winegrowing estates will maintain their price level. At the most slight increases are planned for covering increased material and energy costs. The average price level achieved in VDP winegrowing estates is currently around nine euros. There is general agreement that the sales opportunities are very good to excellent. For years now the estates have enjoyed increasing demand and particularly high increases for ERSTE LAGE wines . German wine is still one of the most favorably priced top wines in the world, and German vintners have an inimitable competence for producing Riesling.
Upshot
The upshot of the new VDP president Steffen Christmann is euphoric: "It promises to be a really great year. We are delighted that 2007 is a year with the unusual constellation where increased quality and quantity come together. After having only been able to produce the required qualities with great effort during the past few years, particularly in 2006, this year it was possible to make the most of excellent prerequisites. Now it is up to the 200 vintner personalities in VDP to use their experience and creativity to use the natural quality to produce excellent quality wines."
GermanWineEstates Features a New Design
By Eric Litchfield, President
-14 December 2007-
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Touring Germany's Wine Country
Franken, Württemberg, Baden, Pfalz and Nahe
Article written by Nancy Deprez
-1 December 2007-
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It was one of those surreal dream-come-true moments. I had just returned from vacation in July, still jet-lagged, when I came back to work and was presented with an overstuffed envelope. What could this be? Tearing it open, I found e-tickets to Frankfurt and back, dated September 1 to September 12, 2007, courtesy of my boss. I love my job.
I was a little stunned, but took it like a professional and prepared to depart to Germany, a country I had never set foot in, but always wanted to experience, home to some of the most beautiful wines in the world.
I was one of a group of eight wine professionals from around the United States who convened with importer Rudi Wiest himself at the Frankfurt Airport that September 2, ready to discover more than 20 top estates in Germany's wine country.
Our group consisted of two wine distributors - one from Mississippi, one from South Carolina; two sommeliers - one from Hawaii and one from Atlantic City; two retailers - one from Manhattan, New York, and me from Long Beach, California; and finally, two national sales representatives from Rudi Wiest Selections.
Our tour started in the southern part of the German wine country, which included the regions of Franken, Württemburg, Baden, Pfalz, and Nahe. This is just one part of my story, which tells of some of the wines and people I encountered in Franken, Württemburg, Baden, Pfalz, and Nahe.
Franken
Our first destination was in Franken, on the very Sunday we landed. This green rolling countryside is known for its dry wines, and it was this dry wine theme that would carry us through the tour. Though German wines are known internationally for being sweet, the locals sing the praises of dry wines, for they pair best with European cuisine. Perhaps in the U.S., dry German wines will someday surpass the popularity of sweet German wines.
In Franken, the grape varieties of the most importance are Riesling, Silvaner, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), primarily all fermented dry. Traditionally bottled in the flat, onion-shaped Bocksbeutel, Franken wines are increasingly found in Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Riesling bottles for the export market.
Weingut Rudolf Fürst
Our first estate to visit was Rudolf Fürst in the town of Bürgstadt. The town is small, like many winemaking villages, and my first thought was how different it is from visiting wine estates in California, where one takes a long driveway to the winery which has gardens and lots of free land. Here, in this small town, it seemed more like we were driving up to a house than a winery. The winery was tucked between other houses - I was to see this was often the pattern - a top estate would appear as an unassuming house in a picturesque village.
Established by Rudolf Fürst, the winemaker has been his son Paul Fürst for decades, but the reins have been recently transferred to his son, Sebastian, the third generation. Sebastian, young, friendly, and passionate about his wines, led us through a tasting of 2006 vintage white wines and 2005 vintage reds. This estate is known for its Pinot Noirs, or Spätburgunder. These two terms are used interchangeably in reference to this now international grape, and though labels still say Spätburgunder.
Fürst owns 17 hectares of land in the western part of Franken, with primarily red sandstone soil, and with over 55% planted to Pinot Noir, with the rest devoted to Riesling, Müller Thurgau, Pinot Blanc, and another variety that I only learned about on this trip called Frühburgunder, or "early ripening Pinot Noir." As the name suggests, it is like Pinot Noir but ripens earlier, and while tasty, tends to lack the depth and age-worthiness of Pinot Noir. The Fürst wines struck me as being very elegant, with pristine fruit and minerality, and an overall delicacy rather than excessive power. One does find it difficult not to compare its wines with those of Burgundy, for they really possess the soul of the land.
The two top vineyard sites owned by Fürst are the Klingenberger and the Centgrafenberg. Klingenberger is planted to 20 to 30 year old Pinot Noir vines and produces the most sexy, Volnay-like Pinot Noir with a most heady aroma. Centgrafenberg is a Grosses Gewächs ("Grand Cru") vineyard planted to both Riesling and Pinot Noir.
The following are a few of the tasting notes of this estate's gorgeous wines, which we tasted with Sebastian Fürst.
2006 Rudolf Fürst Weissburgunder "Pur Mineral"
Aged in large oak barrels with a long time on lees, this wine reaches a deliciously pure state, with white peaches on the nose and a full mouthful of lime and peaches.
2006 Rudolf Fürst Riesling R, Grosses Gewächs, Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg
A tightly wound, full-bodied Riesling, with a long life ahead of it. This wine is rich in mouthfeel, almost velvety, but dry, with bracing lime and lemon zing and fine minerals.
2006 Rudolf Fürst Buntsandstein Terrassen "Alter Satz" von Riesling & Silvaner
Planted on colored sandstone is a field blend of Riesling and Silvaner. These two varieties are harvest together and treated as one, fermented and aged together, producing a delicious fruity yet dry white wine with smoky bacon undertones likely coming from the ripe Silvaner, while the Riesling lends the wine some fresh acidity. A very nice discovery.
2005 Rudolf Fürst Spätburgunder Tradition
This entry level Pinot Noir is made in the traditional method by aging in large old oak barrels, not to impart any oak flavor to the wine, but instead to allow the wine to mature with the small amounts of air exchange through wood. The nose reveals earthiness and smoke, while the palate is of medium body and tastes of cherry fruit and earth.
2005 Rudolf Fürst Spätburgunder Klingenberger
A Volnay like Pinot Noir, with pretty aromatics on the nose - smoked meat, raspberries, toast. The palate is richly flavored with savory notes, smoke, delicate red fruit, and a finish that lingers. Very Burgundian.
2005 Rudolf Fürst Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder R, Grosses Gewächs
A grand cru Pinot Noir on German soil, this is a rich, powerful, masculine Pinot Noir with a nose of sweet brown sugar and toasty oak and vanilla, and a palate of cherries and chocolate. Clearly a site that receives more sun exposure than the others.
Weingut Hans Wirsching
Our next stop in Franken was to the town of Iphöfen, where resides the estate of Hans Wirsching, another specialist in dry wines. Their two famous vineyards are the Kronsberg ("crown hill") and Julius-Echter-Berg, which are both steel slopes having the soil type called gypsum marl. The estate is well known for its Silvaner, Riesling, and Scheurebe, which are made in several style including an entry level estate style, and Kabinett and Spätlese trocken styles.
Our host at Wirsching was winemaking intern Max von Kunow is the son of the owner and winemaker at Weingut Von Hövel in the Saar region. So what was he doing far from home down in Franken? What he is doing is learning to make dry wines at Wirsching. As a soon-to-be a graduate of the enology school at Geisenheim University in the Rheingau, he is also active in the VDP as a leader of a new Younger Generation Winemaker's Group, where he advocates for the sharing of ideas among the new generation of winemakers, many of whom have grown up in winemaking households and have been the first generation to attend school for winemaking. Charming, funny, and completely enthralled by German wine, he is a fine example of what the future of German wines hold.
2006 Hans Wirsching Estate Silvaner Dry
Gorgeous toasty aroma, clean on the palate with refreshing acidity and round mouthfeel, ripe melon and gooseberry in one.
2006 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Kronsberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken
The nose is rich with citrus and white peach, while the palate is high in acidity, minerality, and fruits including lemon, lime and green apple. Nice full body in this bone dry wine - 14.5% alcohol.
2006 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Kronsberg Scheurebe Kabinett Trocken
Scheurebe is a difficult wine to make dry, so many other estates make a sweet one. Wirsching is known for its special treatment of Scheurebe, creating a dry wine that also shows off its fruit and fine minerality. On the nose, there is aromatic sweet melon, and on the palate, there is fresh acidity, white stones, grapefruit and melon, while dry. Anyone who likes Sauvignon Blanc will love this wine.
2006 Hans Wirsching Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner Grosses Gewächs
This is the best Silvaner produced by this estate, hence the Grosses Gewächs designation. The nose is subtle with stone fruit (this wine needs to open up, it is so young). The palate suggests just a hint of residual sugar, creating a wonderful roundness in the mouth that is full of honeydew melon and orange.
2006 Hans Wirsching Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling Grosses Gewächs
This is the Riesling planted in the same Grosses Gewächs vineyard as the above Silvaner. The nose is rich in ripe peach and spice. The palate is higher in acidity than the Silvaner, with lime, minerals and tons of extract, Granny Smith apples, and baking spices. At 6 grams of residual sugar, this is a halbtrocken with 14.5% alcohol.
2006 Hans Wirsching Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner Auslese
After tasting all those dry wines, we got to experience something very delicious, and very interesting. This was a sweet Auslese made from Silvaner, something I had never really experienced before. Poured from the Bocksbeutel, it showed delicate and fresh stone fruits on the nose, and on the palate was a gorgeous mouthful of ripe pear, red apples, yellow nectarines, all unctuous and ripe, like those summer fruits you bite into and the juice gushes down your chin. That's how delicious this Silvaner is. And to top it off, it ages incredibly well, as we were about to see in a special aged bottling of this same wine, which came next.
1983 Hans Wirsching Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner Auslese
Same wine as the 2006 we just tried, just - let me think - 24 years older! Who said Silvaner is not a noble grape and cannot age? No one in Franken, that's for sure. In Franken, Silvaner ranks up there with Riesling as a vin de garde. The nose on this aged wine showed rich honey. The palate was round, balanced, complex, with not much sweetness, just a hint of spice and honeycomb. Over its 24 years, it has developed from a dessert wine to a food wine, ready to pair with hearty dinner dishes. It made us appreciate the potential of the 2006 in terms of its longevity. And according to Rudi Wiest, the 2006 vintage is superior to the 1983 (though 1983 was a good year in Germany).
Württemburg
The next stop was the neighboring region of Württemburg to the south. This historic region is home to the city of Stuttgart, as well as being primarily a red wine region dominated by co-operatives. Co-operatives, or co-ops are winemaking organizations that buy the grapes of the growers in the local area and produce the wine in large quantities. Co-ops came about through the centuries and allowed growers to have steady income and a supply of wine, which at times could be requested from one's own grapes. The most commonly made red wine of the region is Trollinger, a local variety that makes light red wines from large black grapes that grow abundantly. The region loves its Trollinger, and for centuries, there was no reason to grow anything else. However, outside of the region, the wines are not known for their high quality. Until recently, however, when a few renegade winemakers are proving that the vineyards here are capable of finer wines that can grace the wine lists of high-end restaurants, and have been tearing out much of the Trollinger and replacing it with varieties such as Pinot Meunier (called Schwartzriesling here), Pinot Noir, Lemberger (the same grape as Blaufrankisch in Austria), and Riesling.
In Württemburg, we met up with a real up-and-coming winemaker, Rainer Schnaitmann, who has come from a long line of winegrowers who had sold their grapes off to co-ops for the past 500 years. He is the first of his family to stop selling off his grapes to co-ops and to make his own wine. For the past decade, he has been huge strides in quality, experimenting with making Trollinger with lower yields and using better vinification techniques, making crosses, and planting not only Lemberger, Riesling, and Pinot varieties, but also Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc. His wines are small production, and he sells out locally to people who visit his winery, as well as to restaurants around Germany. His wines are not currently exported to the United States, but he is definitely on Rudi's radar screen, and he is an up-and-comer with ambition, drive, energy, and the intelligence and resources to make it all the way to the top.
We had dinner with Rainer and his fiancé at a modern American-styled restaurant located above a modern art museum high above the city of Stuttgart, and we drank his wines with each course. Our first evening in Germany was ironically not with German food, but instead a fusion-styled sashimi appetizer and a filet mignon main dish, but we were nonetheless basking in German hospitality, wine, and culture.
Baden
We hit two regions on the first day of our arrival, and on the second day, we were already on our way to the third region, the region of Baden. Baden is also known for its red wines, and its dry white wines. So far, we had not really experienced the sweet or fruity styles for which German wines are typically known for - those would be more concentrated in the Mosel region, which was later in the tour.
So we continued to experience the exciting dry wines of Germany, of which there were many terrific examples. On day two, we drove through some rainy weather to reach Weingut Dr. Heger in the town of Ihringen.
This estate was founded by Dr. Max Heger in 1935 and is now owned by Joachim Heger. We were taken on a tour of the cellar and led through the tasting by one of his winemakers, Markus, who had not only great English skills, but technical flair and a great sense of humor. Our tasting was of the estate's Silvaner, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, and Spätburgunder. Of those, I found the simple yet delicious estate Pinot Noir to be one of the most delicious.
2006 Heger Estate Silvaner
Grown on a number of vineyards that have volcanic soil, this Silvaner shows a rich mouthfeel and was heavy on the peach tones.
2006 Heger Winkleberg Silvaner
The Winkleberg vineyard is the estate's best vineyard, a suntrap that has a number of old vines. The nose on this Silvaner is more powerful than in the Estate Silvaner, and the palate is richer, higher in acidity, and expresses citrus tones. This is a great wine to go with Sashimi.
2005 Heger Estate Pinot Noir
Aged in old oak casks, this is a pretty Pinot Noir, with a nose of cherry fruit, and a palate that is light to medium, fruit forward with a Burgundian earth-and-herb quality.
Pfalz
Weingut Friedrich Becker
There was a bit of a drive to reach the town of Schweigen one sleepy morning when the sun was shining upon the Pfalz. We passed a number of road signs pointing us to "Strassburg," the German spelling for the French city of Strassbourg. We knew we were very close to Alsace. When we finally reached the Schweigen, there was the pretty Friedrich Becker estate, and we found ourselves early for their annual customer appreciation party, the Jazz Brunch. Family members and staff seemed to be busily preparing for the day's celebration. Four jazz players set up on one side of the pretty courtyard, while on the other side, a chef in whites put out a chalkboard sign displaying the day's fare. A couple of children played a game on one of the picnic tables, while the other tables, set tablecloths and flowers, remained unattended. They were setting up for their big day, and after a bit of a wait, we were shuttled to their cellar room to do our tasting. I hadn't fully woken up yet, even by that time, until I tasted the wines. Expecting something ordinary out of this dry wine estate I barely knew, I was taken aback when I began to taste one wine after another. They were sensational! Delicious, singing in my mouth, waking up my senses. They were wines I definitely did not need to convince myself to like. Everything from their dry whites to their gorgeous, fruit forward reds were wonderful.
A brief intro to the winery's work was given by Fritz Becker Jr., who has been making the estate's wines since only 2005. Prior to this, his father, owner Fritz Becker Sr, had been making the wines for almost three decades, the first of his family to stop selling grapes to the co-operative and take his vineyard's prized grapes into his own hands, making the Becker estate one of the most highly regarded red wine producers in Germany.
A couple of interesting facts were shared about the Becker vineyards and the specific labeling of the wines. First, the Becker vineyards are on the French side of the border, just a couple of hundred meters from the winery. So this estate makes German wines from grapes grown technically in France. Second, vineyards are of sandstone and limestone soil, very similar to that of Burgundy. As for the labels, the dry wines produced by this estate do not go by the German Wine Laws which name wines by their Pradikat labels, such as Kabinett, Spätlese, and Auslese. They do not care to name their wines by the ripeness level of the grapes at the time of harvest; instead, they classify all their wines as Qualitätswein, and name the wines in a more international fashion, that is, by a three-tiered system whereby the entry level wines are called Estate, the mid-tiered wines given another name, and the reserve, single vineyard, Grosses Gewäch wines given that specific designation. Only a few of the sweet wines produced specify Spätlese or Auslese.
2006 Becker Estate Riesling Dry
The first wine was fresh and lively on the nose, with a pleasant palate of crunchy green apples. The fruit is at the same time round and crisp.
2006 Becker Weissburgunder "Limestone" Dry (Pinot Blanc)
This Pinot Blanc expresses a fresh, floral aroma, while on the palate, there are rose petals, minerals, and good acidity. This would be a perfect wine for oysters.
2006 Becker Riesling "Laisser-Faire" Medium Dry
"Let it do what it wants" is the name of this Riesling, which was first made by Fritz Becker Jr. by mistake when he let this wine's fermentation go unchecked, but serendipity made this wine a complete best seller, so "my dad let me make it again the next year, on purpose!" This Riesling was picked at Auslese level (but is sold as a Qualitätswein), fermented with natural wild yeasts in two-year old barrels, aged with long yeast contact, and undergoes malolactic fermentation, producing this fresh, medium-dry, medium-sweet wine with notes of ripe pears and apples and a creamy mouthfeel.
2006 Becker Barrel Sample Estate Spätburgunder
A nose of bright red cherry fruit and candy, and a palate that is medium bodied with great acidity, cherry fruit, candy and baking spices. This Pinot Noir is a German clone that produces very loose clusters and are less prone to rot than some other clones.
2005 Becker Spätburgunder "B"
The "B" stands for barrique, the small French-style barrels, but these barrique (all old, no new in this cuvee) are made from German oak. 2005 was a spectacular year for red wine, so this wine's nose is deep, with red and black fruits and savory, rich notes. The palate is full of red and black fruits, toasty oak, but not overwhelming.
2005 Becker Kammerberg Grosses Gewächs Spätburgunder
This is a single vineyard Pinot Noir from "Chamber Hill," referring to this vineyard's history as providing some reserve wines drank by monks in the chamber. This is a south facing vineyard on the French side, with 40-year old vines. The wine was made unfined and unfiltered, aged in 80% fine-grained German new oak. The nose: elegant and toasty, suggestive of the oak aging; the palate: rich, toasty, big, and looking toward a New World style.
2005 Becker Sankt Paul Grosses Gewächs Spätburgunder
This is the best vineyard owned by the Beckers, the Saint Paul, of which they have 0.6 hectares. Compared with the Kammerberg, this vineyard is more steep and sloping, and the soil is poorer, forcing the vines to struggle more to obtain water. This Pinot Noir is like a powerful Burgundy, with New World richness and Old World elegance wrapped up in one.
2006 Becker Gewürtztraminer Spätlese
We finished off this tasting with something on the sweet side. True to their labeling style, they leave on the terms Spätlese for a wine like this which is sweet. The nose is full of lychees; the palate is round, juicy, pleasant, fresh, and much lower in acid compared to a Riesling.
Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz
Owner and winemaker Hansjörg Rebholz hosted this tasting for us of his dry, dry, and I mean DRY wines. His wines are statuesque and border on lean, and are meant to be drunk a few years after the vintage so their parts integrate and mellow out. He has a great range of wines, and we started out with some sparkling that he makes in partnership with Volker Raumland of Sekthau Raumland, and went through his range from Muscateller all the way through his best single vineyard Rieslings up to his Spätburgunders.
2002 Rebholz Blanc de Noirs & Blanc de Blancs
This curious sparkling wine is 50:50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, hence the name. Made from Rebholz fruit and made at Sekhaus Raumland, it has received critical acclaim, which Hansjörg proudly shared with Volker Raumland. The sparkler spends two years on lees, and is yeasty, bready, dry, with notes of freshly baked brioche and cinnamon/apple pie spice.
2006 Rebholz Muscateller Kabinett Trocken
In contrast to Becker, Hansjörg labels his wines the old fashioned way - Kabinett Trocken for example. He shared that Muscateller may have had its origins in Iraq, then migrated to Old Europe. The nose on this wine is definitely Muscat, with orange blossom, exotic fruits, and flowers. The palate is light, dry, lean, high in acidity, though definitely fresh and hinting toward citrus.
2006 Rebholz Riesling vom Buntsandstein Kabinett Trocken
A steely, minerally Riesling with lemon rind acidity that is most mouthwatering. There's no residual sugar in this wine.A great wine with seafood: think crab legs dipped in ample butter, or a fatty cut of seabass.
2006 Rebholz Riesling von Buntsandstein Spätlese Trocken
There's more fruit on the nose in this wine compared to the Kabinett Trocken. High acid on the palate, though fuller in body, again, not a gram of residual sugar. A wine built for food, this is for certain!
2006 Rebholz Im Sonnenschein Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Harvested at a brutally low 15 hl/ha, this wine is made from the Im Sonnenschein ("in sunshine") Grand Cru vineyard that is second only to Rebholz's famous Kasteinebush vineyard. This Riesling is also puckeringly dry but has a full mouthfeel and a richness of fruit in the midpalate owing to the minute 5 grams of residual sugar that Hansjörg allowed to remain in this wine. But worry not - this wine finishes bone dry.
2006 Rebholz Kasteinebush Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Here's the top vineyard showing its stuff in this Grand Cru Riesling, again harvested at a mere 15 hl/ha. The wine is a golden straw color like a white Burgundy aged in oak; the aroma is off orange sections and orange blossom. The palate is rich, full, juicy, suggesting some residual sugar, but certainly not much. There is component in the wine that reminded me of sweet crab meat - savory salinity integrated with sweetness.
2004 Rebholz Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken "Tradition"
Here is their basic Pinot Noir, aged 2 years in old barrels. The nose is smoky, rich and savory, while the palate is dry, toasty, with smoked meat and bacon notes in a thin wrapping of cherry fruit.
2005 Rebholz Von Muschelkalk Spätburgunder
Just bottled the previous week, we tasted this famous Pinot Noir, which showed some pretty floral aromas and red cherries and raspberries on the nose. On the palate, the wine is high in acid, some ripe fruit but also some astringent wood tannins, suggesting that this is a vin de garde that simply need some years in the cellar before drinking.
Nahe
Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich
I had heard of Tim Fröhlich before, but had never met him, so I assumed he was a mid-40s guy. He has a celebrity reputation in Germany for making some of the most cutting edge wines in all of Germany today, not just the in the Nahe, rivaling super-celebs such as Dönnhoff. When we finally met him, I was surprised that he looks about 30, maybe even younger, with a Tom-Cruise-in-Top-Gun look, angular features and a seriousness about him that almost doesn't fit in the small, charming, and somewhat old-fashioned town of Bockenau in which his family's winery is located.
There's pretty much nothing old-fashioned about Tim Fröhlich. Unlike many of his generation, he is self-taught, did not attend Geisenheim, but instead seems to make his wine from instinct and simply being around wine since birth. His first vintage was 1995, and since then, he has been written up and lauded extensively in publications across Europe for his modern style of winemaking.
He speaks with precision and focus about his wines, without any extraneous words that add fluff. So are his wines - precise, focused, as though a laser beam goes through each of them, cutting straight to the point.
Like many of the leading winemakers in Germany, his passion is making dry wines that appeal to the Germany market and internationally. His single vineyard Spätlese Trocken is just the tip of the iceberg in terms of what he is able to do with dry vinification. He also makes fruity wines such as the Nahe Estate Kabinett Riesling and single vineyard Spätlese, which both have a racy structure and pure fruit. The noble sweet wines from this estate are also among the best in Nahe.
2006 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese Trocken
The nose exhibits flint, slate and minerals, while on the palate, there is concentration and weight, a steeliness that is assertive but still balanced. A focused dry wine that can hold up to meat dishes, showing elegance and power.
2006 Schäfer-Fröhlich Nahe Estate Riesling Kabinett
The palate on this wine is has a fine structure, with light appealing white peach and a hint of mint. It's a classic Kabinett without too much heaviness, very pure.
2006 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese
Ripe fruit characterizes this Spätlese - envision sweet soft nectarines, red cherries, and strawberries, seasoned with a touch of slate. This wine reminds one of an elegant Mosel wine but with more ripeness.
2005 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Beerenauslese
Hand selected, raisin by raisin, this wine is made from botrytized grapes giving a honeyed, caramelized pears flavor that Sauternes cannot hold a candle to. Finesse and elegance comes to mind when drinking this wine - this is as noble a sweet wine as noble sweet wines can get, with bright acidity balancing the natural sweetness. For autumn, this wine is a perfect ending to a harvest feast.
Conclusions and Thoughts
Germany's wine country is a fascinating place, full of dynamic producers and breathtaking vineyards. The regions are diverse, but have a common thread, joined in the pursuit of making some of the purest wines on the planet. Not only do the most delicate sweet and fruity wines hail from this corner of the world, but so do dry white and red wines that rival the very best. And, though wine has been made in Germany for 2000 years, the world is just beginning to see the range of what its vineyards and its vintners can do.
What we need to do is open ourselves up for this amazing ride. Taste as many top end German wines as you can get your hands on. This is the thing now, and the next best thing, and it's going to thrill your senses.
Special thanks is given to Nancy Deprez for this submitting this article. Here is a little background information:
Nancy Deprez, formerly Nancy Ling, began her professional wine career in 2005 working for the retail firm The Wine Country, located in southern California in the city of Signal Hill. Prior to being in wine, she worked for over a decade as a dietitian in the health care field, and thus has an extensive background in food science. Now in her third year at The Wine Country, she currently manages the German department as well as buying wines for Austria, the rest of Central Europe, and the Southern Hemisphere. She has traveled to several wine producing regions including Germany, Champagne, Napa and Sonoma Valleys, Santa Barbara county and Paso Robles. Her passions in wine include German Rieslings and Pinot Noirs, Champagne, Burgundy, and Rhone reds.
2007 Vintage Report at Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler
Information supplied by Stefan Pauly
-1 December 2007-
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The winter 2006/2007 was one of the warmest winters ever reported in the Moselle valley, with just a few days of temperatures around freezing and with no snow but a sufficient amount of rain.
Due to the warm spring the bud break in our Riesling vineyards was 25 days earlier than in an average year, the earliest ever.
Throughout the summer there was always enough water, and temperatures were a bit above normal.
Since the flowering of our Rieslings was also the earliest ever recorded, we anticipated a very early harvest in the middle of September. However, due to cold weather throughout September and October and no rain, the Riesling grapes were able to stay on the vines even longer.
Handpicking began in our vineyards as usual on October 4th. This late start, as well as the earliest bud break ever, makes the vintage 2007 a very unique one for our Rieslings. We had the longest ripening time ever and a great balance of ripeness and acidity! The 2007 Rieslings will be very complex with lots of mineralities and interesting aromas due to this long ripening time.
We harvest all quality levels from Riesling Qualitaetswein up to the Beerenauslese; in our prime single vineyard, Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg even a Trockenbeerenauslese.
After losing our Eiswein grapes in 2005 and 2006, we are still hoping for Eiswein within the next few weeks.
German Wine Vintage 2007
Excellent Qualities and Good Yields
Information supplied by Deutsches Weininstitut
-10 November 2007-
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Thanks to early bud burst and optimal autumn weather, German wine grapes had an unusually long growing season in 2007. This year’s harvest was relatively unhurried and took place over several weeks. Grape musts and young wines are showing well, with a fabulous wealth of aromas, high ripeness and extract levels, and a well-integrated, harmonious – yet marked – acidity.
After last year’s small harvest, growers are also very satisfied with the size of this year’s crop: in all, estimated to be ca. 10.5 – 11 million hectoliters. A résumé of this year’s harvest in the 13 wine-growing regions, compiled by the German Wine Institute/Mainz, follows.
Vintage 2007 – Regional Conditions
In the Ahr, the Frühburgunder (an early-ripening Pinot Noir) harvest began in late August and ended with the Riesling harvest during the second week of October. Yields – approaching 100 hl/ha – were quite satisfactory, and for this small red wine region, above average in size. The prognosis is for an overall quantity of 54,000 hl. Yields were higher for Portugieser, lower for Früh- and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Must weights ranged mostly between 70 and 100 degrees Oechsle; Spätburgunder, in particular, achieved high must weights. Thanks to ideal weather conditions during the ripening period, the grapes were able to develop high extracts. The ratio of quantity to quality is described as optimal. The crop was healthy and there were no problems with fermentation. Vintage 2007 Weissherbst (rosé) will be bottled shortly to meet the high demand for this category.
In Baden, the harvest ended in mid-October and Baden vintners view 2007 as a very good vintage. The harvest itself and its results are described as a “dream of a harvest.” Equally wonderful were the weather conditions – a golden October – calm autumn weather with cool nights and sunny days that fostered the development of a spectrum of aromas. Wine lovers can look forward to outstanding wines from the 2007 vintage. According to a local wine-growers’ advisor: “Across the board, regardless of variety, the aromas and color of these wines are extraordinary. We haven’t seen the likes of this for quite some time.” Not only were there impressive must weights for Spätburgunder and Riesling, but also specialties, such as Gewürztraminer or Gutedel, showed well. After the first tastings of the young wines, cellar masters are describing the vintage as remarkable for its grandiose wealth of aromas, as well as its perceptible, yet well-integrated, wine acidity. They expect red wines with great depth of color and longevity. Not only is the high quality welcome, but also the quantity harvested – to help alleviate shortages after several small crops. In all, Baden’s 16,000 ha yielded a crop of ca. 1.2 million hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha – more than in 2006.
The harvest in Franken started in early September – but growers with patience were rewarded with a sunny October. After a damp summer, very selective harvesting was necessary in order to achieve (ultimately) quite satisfactory results. The first Müller-Thurgau wines of 2007 are aromatic, fresh and fruity; Silvaner, another important varietal in Franken, is showing a fine, elegant note. Only Bacchus grapes had a lower-than-average yield, due to sunburn. About three quarters of the wine musts reached Prädikat wine levels; the average must weight was a remarkably high 87 degrees Oechsle. The region’s 6,000 ha of vineyards yielded somewhat more than half a million hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha. This is a seven percent increase in quantity over the year before, which will help replenish low stocks prior to the harvest.
The Hessische Bergstrasse, Germany’s second smallest wine region, is known above all for its Rieslings, but other varieties are at home there, too. At the end of August, for example, the Frühburgunder harvest began. In mid-October, after the Riesling harvest, the last Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were gathered. Growers willing to postpone the start of their harvest were able to achieve considerably higher qualities, particularly with their Riesling grapes. For the first time, red Riesling was harvested. This rarity is believed to be a forerunner of the white Riesling we know today. Spätburgunder must weights were remarkably high; Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) required a very selective harvest and yields were disappointingly low. Overall, the crop was a good 35,000 hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha – significantly more than in 2006, when quantities barely met supply. For this reason, the first bottlings of 2007 are expected on the market in early November.
The harvest in the Mittelrhein began in mid-September with a few early-ripening varieties, but the main harvest didn’t end until the last week of October. Both quantity and quality are remarkable in this Riesling region. The overall yield is somewhat above the long-term average and considerably above the year before. In all, some 40,000 hl are expected, equal to a yield of 90 hl/ha. Riesling, in particular, benefited from the long growing season, with optimal proportions of sugar (average of 100 degrees Oechsle) to acidity. Red grapes, such as Spätburgunder, were also harvested in a healthy state, at up to 100 degrees Oechsle, with a slightly higher acidity than the year before.
Due to the northerly location of the region and the significance of the late-ripening varietal Riesling, it comes as no surprise that the Mosel growers are among the last to start harvesting. Müller-Thurgau and Elbling (ancient white variety, cultivated primarily in the upper Mosel, along the border with Luxembourg) were picked in the second half of September; the Riesling harvest began in October and – in estates with holdings in steep sites, where harvesting can only be done by hand – lasted the entire month. Ideal weather, with mostly dry, sunny autumn days as well as cool (at times cold) nights, made for a stress-free harvest. These weather conditions enabled growers to harvest their crop at an optimal ripeness level. The 2007 wines from the valleys of the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer are expected to be particularly rich in minerals and extracts. Steep-site Riesling grapes had considerable time to absorb minerals from the slate soil – ultimately reflected in a wine’s aroma and flavor. This year’s growing season (the time between blossoming and harvest) was particularly long: 100 days is the norm; in 2007: 120 to 150 days. Consumers can expect well-structured wines with straightforward fruit aromas/flavors. Must weights primarily reached Prädikat levels, often 100 degrees Oechsle and above. The region’s nearly 9,000 ha yielded an estimated 925,000 hl and thus, some 85,000 hl more than in 2006.
The Müller-Thurgau harvest in mid-September marked the start of the harvest in the Nahe, ending with the Riesling harvest in the second half of October. Patience was rewarded – particularly for Riesling, which achieved must weights of 90 to 95 degrees Oechsle. Cool October nights slowed down a reduction in acidity in the white wine varietals, and the young wines have a harmonious ratio of ripeness to crispness. Red varietals, too, profited from a later harvest: Spätburgunder grapes reached Oechsle levels well over 80 degrees. In all, a considerable amount of Prädikatswein is expected. Yields: 100 hl/ha – good news for Nahe growers. An estimated 430,00 hl were harvested – a fourth more than in the preceding year.
Earlier than usual – mid-August – some growers in the Pfalz harvested grapes for Federweisser (fermenting grape juice) and the last of the new wine was sold at the end of October. The harvest in the Pfalz usually takes place over months – unlike the stressful and hectic circumstances a year ago. In contrast to the year before, this year’s sunny autumn led to a considerable increase in must weights for both white and red varietals, which in turn, has led to an exceptionally high niveau of red and white wines. Acidity values are higher than in the “esteemed” vintage 2003 – particularly good news for Riesling wines. The harvest was relatively large – 2.5 million hl – and is welcome to meet demand. Quality is also well above average. Growers had time to harvest at the optimal time of ripeness, taking into consideration the various growth periods of different varietals, and could fill their portfolios accordingly. Consumers can expect a great selection of very good wines at all quality levels.
Rheingau growers began harvesting in mid-September, with young wines showing a prominent acidity. A month later, the Rieslings were more harmonious and riper, with higher must weights. Export-oriented wineries that specialize in lusciously sweet wines harvested until the end of October. Already in October, a traditional wine estate achieved a record must weight of more than 300 degrees Oechsle. In some vineyards, grapes are still hanging – in hopes of an Eiswein harvest. Under ideal autumn weather conditions, every grower could harvest exactly what was needed for his/her portfolio. The end of the growing season was particularly favorable for the most important grape variety of the Rheingau, Riesling. It’s said to be a “typical” Riesling vintage. The region’s most important red variety, Spätburgunder, also achieved high ripeness levels at the hand of patient wine-growers. Growers welcome the above-average crop – many a wine on a price list was sold out. The yield was above 80 hl/ha, in all at least a total of 250,000 hl. The excellent quality of vinage 2007 is also reflected by increased demand for bulk wines.
In Germany’s largest wine-growing region, Rheinhessen, this year’s harvest is described as quite good, often compared with the 2002 and 2004 vintages. Many a grower is not sparing with superlatives, such as “wonderful qualities after an ideal autumn” or “sensational vintage.” Grapes were picked throughout September, but it was primarily the grapes harvested in October that achieved the above-average ripeness levels that are the hallmark of this vintage. As such, the growing season for some vines stretched over 140 days rather than the necessary absolute minimum of 100 days. This was optimal for Riesling, which showed its best with an average must weight of 85 degrees Oechsle, as well as for Rheinhessen’s other traditional varietals, e.g. Silvaner (80 degrees Oechsle) and Pinots, which for the most part, were harvested with 90 degrees Oechsle. Warm days and cold nights yielded elegant wines with brisk acidity, fruitiness, and an expressive play of aromas. Harvest yields are estimated at 115 hl/ha, well above average, for a total yield of 2.9 million hl.
Although the vineyards suffered damage due to weather conditions – late frost in May, sunburn in July – the size of the crop in Saale-Unstrut is about that of last year’s good level. About 42,000 hl are expected, or a third more than usual. Since the development of the grapes was ahead of schedule, growers were able to start harvesting in early September. Some estates waited until the second half of October. The crop was healthy and posed no problems for cellar masters. Thanks to the long growing season, the wines are quite aromatic, very fruity, and marked by a lively acidity. With regard to quantity and quality: a good to very good vintage.
In Sachsen, more than two weeks earlier than usual, the harvest began in August, with the region’s early-ripening specialty, the rare Goldriesling (a Riesling x Courtillier Musqué crossing). For the most part, the harvest had ended by mid-October, not least because several rainy days prompted growers to quicken their pace. A primarily healthy crop was brought in, before the damp weather could lead to rot. Ripeness and acidity levels were, respectively, satisfactory and quite good – this bodes particularly well for Gewürztraminer. Overall, the wines of Germany’s smallest wine-growing region – less than 500 ha/1,235 acres – are rarities and regularly sold out, even at relatively high prices. Despite the good quantity harvested in 2007, this situation is not likely to change. Estimated quantity: 20,000 hl.
The harvest in Württemberg – a six-week period of picking that ended in the second half of October – yielded good qualities and a marketable quantity. Yields are estimated to be 110 hl/ha, with an overall quantity of 1.2 to 1.3 million hl. Württemberg’s strength lies in the red wine sector (ca. 75 percent of the harvest), with varieties such as Trollinger, Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier), and Lemberger (Blaufränkisch). Yields for Trollinger and Lemberger were slightly above average, whereas yields for early-ripening white varieties, such as Kerner or Müller-Thurgau, fell short of the long-term average. The Riesling crop, however, was larger than last year and will help alleviate supply problems for the region’s most important white varietal. The overall harvesting period was able to be extended, thanks to mild weather, influenced by high pressure. In addition, this fostered both an increase in must weights and the development of ripe aromas – reflected in the first bottlings of white wines of the new vintage.
German Vintage 2007 is Superb
Information supplied by Wines of Germany
-1 November 2007-
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Very Good Quality and Sufficient Quantity
German Grape Must Harvest Estimated at 10.5 _ 11 Million Hectoliters
As this year's grape harvest comes to an end, wine-growers in all 13 German wine-growing regions are thoroughly satisfied. Monika Reule, managing director of the Geman Wine Institute/Mainz, is glad that “everything went well this year” and added that “not only are this year's qualities above average, but also the quantities harvested _ currently estimated at 10.5 to 11 million hectoliters _ are reason to be pleased, not least because this will enable us to better meet the increased demand for German wines at home and abroad than was possible the past year.” At this writing, the 2007 grape must harvest is some eight percent greater than the ten-year average, and well above the 9.1 million hl harvested both in 2005 and in 2006.
Optimal Harvest Conditions
This year's harvest was less fraught with stress than those of recent years. Thanks to the good weather and the healthy state of the grapes, growers were able to fine-tune their picking to wait for just the right moment of ripeness for each grape variety. Furthermore, extremely early blossoming enabled development to begin by the end of May, thus providing the grapes with the longest overall period of vegetation ever recorded. As such, typical varietal aromas are quite pronounced _ particularly so in late-ripening varieties, such as Riesling and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). The long growing season also fostered high quality and ripe tannins in red varieties, which bodes well for full-bodied, velvety red wines.
At the same time, sufficient water supplies released considerable quantities of mineral nutrients in the soil, and these could be absorbed by the grapes. This usually yields wines that are rich in extract and that reflect the influence of their site-related “terroir.” According to Monika Reule, “We anticipate outstanding wines from vintage 2007 in all quality levels, from uncomplicated, everyday wines to top-quality wines with a fine balance of ripeness and fruity acidity as well as great aging potential. These wines will have a great following at home and abroad.”
Monika Reule estimates that prices for this vintage will remain stable for the most part. “Nevertheless,” she says, ”due to relatively hefty increases in auxiliary, production-related costs, slightly upward price adjustments might be necessary.”
“Hanging in There” _ Hopes for Eiswein
In years of a good-sized grape crop, growers are more inclined to risk leaving a few rows of vines unpicked, hoping to be able to harvest Eiswein. Time will tell whether there will be vintage 2007 Eiswein...no frost, no ice wine. Last year, this rare specialty was very rare indeed.
German Winegrowers Expect a Good Vintage in 2007
Grapes Ripened Quite Early / Above-average Quality / Overall Expected Yield of 10 Million Hectoliters
Information supplied by Deutsches Weininstitut
-1 October 2007-
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According to the president of the German Wine-growers’ Association/Bonn, Norbert Weber: “If the current stable and relatively dry weather pattern holds, and thanks to the early ripening of the grapes, growers have time to decide on the optimal time to harvest in order to maximize the aromas in the grapes.”
Yield Expectations of +10%
As the German Wine Institute/Mainz explained, wine lovers can expect full-bodied wines with a pronounced fruitiness in 2007. Furthermore, there will be sufficient quantities available. The overall expected yield in Germany is ca. 10 million hectoliters, some 5% more than the 10-year-average and 13% more than the year before. “After two years of relatively small harvests and a concomitant increase in demand for German wines at home and abroad, cellar stocks are nearly depleted,” says Monika Reule, managing director of the German Wine Institute/Mainz. “All involved in the wine market would welcome the anticipated yields and qualities.”
Due to short supplies this year, wine estates could not always fully fulfill customers’ wishes. As a result, direct sales at wine estates decreased by 15.8% during the first half of 2007 compared with the first half of 2006. Nevertheless, with a market share of 46.2% in terms of volume and 51.9% in terms of value of all wines purchased in Germany, wines of German origin remain by far the market leader in the domestic market.
Exports also continue to post growth. The latest export statistics show that in the period from July 2006 through June 2007, export volume increased 18.2% and export value 24.0% compared with the same period the year before.
Monika Reule is confident that the good market position of German wines will continue. “If the current vintage delivers what it promises at this stage, the 2007 wines will effortlessly join the ranks of the good to very good vintages of recent years. Consumers will then be able to look forward to German wines with a typical varietal character, available at an attractive price-pleasure ratio.”
Earliest Recorded Blossoming of Grapevines in Germany
Information supplied by Wines of Germany
-1 September 2007-
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The extraordinarily warm weather in spring 2007 led to a rapid development of the vines and an extremely early blossoming. According to Ernst Büscher of the German Wine Institute, Mainz, the first vines in Germany, have blossomed about a week earlier than ever before. The earliest recorded blossoming to date was in the Rheingau on June 2, 1993. On average, blossoming takes place in mid-June.
Blossoming – A “Quiet Happening” Decisively Influences a Vintage
Actually, the flower clusters of grapevines are rather inconspicuous. Botanically, the clusters are panicles – loose, irregularly branched flower clusters – with individual flowers, or blossoms, on the end of each branch. If successfully fertilized, these blossoms ultimately develop into grapes. Grapevines are “practical” in that many have the ability to self-pollinate, and thus are not reliant on outside help from insects or animals. The overall number of clusters provides an early prognosis in terms of potential yield – with emphasis on “early.” Much can happen between blossoming and harvest, in terms of pests and disease, to totally change this first outlook.
Büscher adds, “The next few days are extremely important. Temperatures should not fall below 59 F.”
Furthermore, cool, rainy weather hampers the optimal fertilization and immature berries dry up and fall off the vines in a phenomenon known as “coulure” or “shatter.” Deficient fruit set naturally reduces potential yield.
It’s understandable that vintners follow the flowering period quite closely, and in some villages, there are “blossoming festivals.” From the end of blossoming, it is about 95 days until harvest. The “baby” berries continue to develop from late June until early July and begin to ripen in mid-August. Actual development depends on grape variety, as well as weather conditions and microclimate within a site. Blossoming is the “birthday” of the new grapes, and thus the start of 2007 vintage.
Background Information
The Grapevine – Botanical Overview
Originally, grapevines grew in forests and climbed up trees, as “creepers,” members of the high-climbing woody vines known as liana. The earliest findings of grape seeds stem from the early Tertiary Period (ca. 80 million years ago). Wild grapes of the species vitis silvestris and vitis caucasica still thrive in the Upper Rhine, Switzerland and Balkans. Today’s wines stem from the species vitis vinifera that are the result of specific breeding, accidental crossings and natural mutations. About 8,000 different varieties are known. Grapes grow in the Northern Hemisphere between the 30th and 51st degree of latitude and between the 30th and 40th degree of latitude in the Southern Hemisphere.
Ideal Temperatures
Average annual temperatures of more than 9 C (48 F), winter temperatures not lower than minus 20 C (–4 F) to avoid frost danger.
Blossoming Stage
Vines have flower clusters, each with several individual blossoms that form a closed “cap.” The cap falls off during blossoming, the individual flowers appear, and glands in the vine lend a fine aroma to the air. The measuring of the blossoming period begins when about 25% of the flower clusters have blossomed (i.e. caps have fallen off) and ends when about 90% of the caps have fallen off. In all, this phase can last from five to ten days, depending on weather circumstances.
VDP Welcomes New Member Estate from the Mittelrhein
Weingut Matthias Müller, Spay
Information supplied by the VDP
-1 June 2007-
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In late spring 2007, the VDP* welcomed Weingut Matthias Müller as its 195th member estate. It is located in the village of Spay, adjacent to and north of Boppard, and thus numbers among the handful of members in the regional association, VDP-Mittelrhein.
Weingut Matthias Müller is a 300-year-old family enterprise that is committed to producing in-dividualistic wines that are typical of the region...wines that reflect the vibrant culture of their origin.
From generation to generation, the family has worked hand in hand according to the estate’s philosophy: “Being down-to-earth, tradition, and continuity are not to be confused with being outdated or antiquated. We associate these values with progress, onging development, and being forward-looking.”
Some 90% of the estate’s 10.5 ha (26 acres) are planted with Riesling. Other varieties include Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), with 6 and 4 percent, respectively. The grapes grow on weathered Devonian slate in the steep sites of the Bopparder Hamm (from the Latin hamus, meaning hook or curve), the Rhine’s longest loop (ca. 7 km/4.4 miles) as well as the region’s largest contiguous stretch of vineyards. In addition to the tiny site Engelstein – which straddles the boundary between the suburb Bopparder Hamm and Spay – the estate has holdings in the sites Feuerlay, Mandelstein and Ohlenberg. When natural conditions permit, the wines ferment spontaneously. The family’s favorite wines of a vintage – exceptional, very individualistic Rieslings that are rich in character – are labeled “Edition MM,” which stands for the initials of Matthias and Marianne Müller, and is “symbolic of partners who perfectly complement one another.”
Their constant efforts to achieve the best quality possible have been regularly recognized by all of Germany’s best-known wine guides and magazines that annually publish lists of leading estates. The estate is no longer an insider’s tip – it was named “discovery of the year in 1998” in the Gault-Millau guide.
Both the wines and the vintners of Weingut Matthias Müller be will present at the GutsWein presentation in Berlin on 1 and 2 September 2007.
The Top League German Winemakers
Important German Wine Guides Published in November; Awards for the German Wine Elite Released
Information supplied by Wines of Germany
-1 May 2007-
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With bated breath German winemakers and German wine enthusiasts await the annual publication – traditionally, in November – of the well-known German wine guides “Gault Millau WeinGuide” and “Eichelmann Deutschlands Weine.” This year marks the 14th edition of Gault Millau and the 8th for Eichelmann. Both guides offer a wealth of information about German wine estates and individual wines, and every year the subjective evaluation |