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Welcome. This website is devoted to the great wine estates of Germany, whose wines are available in the United States. It is the objective of owner, Eric Litchfield, to provide current information on all aspects of the German wine trade, with informative tasting notes, vintage reports, links to other German wine websites, and assist the viewer in purchasing wines of interest from the fine wine shops listed on the Wine Shops for Wine Lovers page. It is our goal to make GermanWineEstates The Site for German Wine Lovers.
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Step by step the Prädikat Wine Estates are coming closer to realizing the self-defined goals set forth at their general meeting in 2006. It was agreed that the resolutions passed then – a breakthrough in establishing more clarity with regard to the nomenclature to designate wines in the top category – would be implemented in all regions no later than 2015. According to VDP president Steffen Christmann: “Year for year we’re seeing progress. It makes one proud and happy to see how our members are going about implementing our common vision. Within just three years, many aspects of the resolutions passed in 2006 are already in place. Our classification is comparable with the process of fermentation – with time, grape must clarifies itself more and more, and one watches over it with great hope that it will become an outstanding wine.”
Nomenclature introduced in 2006
ERSTE LAGE
 is the uniform umbrella term that designates all wines of the top category in all regions. The logo stands for “origin from one of the finest vineyards in Germany.” If the wines are dry in style, they are referred to as Grosse Gewächse (great growths), symbolized on labels by the initials GG.
If the wines have a natural fruity sweetness, they are denoted by the traditional Prädikats, e.g. Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, etc.
Regardless of style, the Prädikat Wine Estates guarantee that all wines that are designated ERSTE LAGE are produced according to the same strict, terroir-oriented criteria.
>>> Since its conception in 2006, this system of nomenclature – ERSTE LAGE
– has been implemented nationwide by all VDP members. Use of vineyard names
ERSTE LAGE
wines bear the name of an individual vineyard site that has met VDP classification criteria. If a vineyard name is used for ERSTE LAGE wines, it can only be used for ERSTE LAGE wines. This was an objective set in 2006. It has already been implemented in the Pfalz for quite some time. As of vintage 2008, VDP members in the Nahe and Rheinhessen regions have imposed even stricter regulations governing the use of vineyard names. The Prädikat Wine Estates are confident that the pioneering efforts of these three regions will be followed by other regions – intial efforts can already be seen. >>> After the Pfalz, the Nahe and Rheinhessen regions (as of vintage 2008) have imposed even stricter regulations governing the use of vineyard names. Other regions are working on similar measures.
Marketing
Dry ERSTE LAGE
wines, i.e. all Grosse Gewächse (GG), receive at least one year of aging before being released. Dry white ERSTE LAGE
wines can be released on the first of September the year after the harvest. Dry red ERSTE LAGE
wines can be released on the first of September two years after the harvest. ERSTE LAGE
wines with a natural fruity sweetness, i.e. denoted by the traditional Prädikats, can be released on the first of May the year after the harvest, regardless of color. The newest ERSTE LAGE
releases, dry white/dry red and wines with natural fruity sweetness, will make their debut at the VDP Weinbörse in Mainz on 26 and 27 April 2009. >>> As of vintage 2008, the marketing regulations outlined above have been implemented by VDP members nationwide.
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I am delighted to report that GermanWineEstates displayed record growth in viewer readership for the year 2008. Number of viewers and unique readership, two of the most relevant gauges used for statistical analysis, were up significantly for the year. The annual number of visitors increased by a factor of 50.7% over the 2007 level and unique readership surpassed the 2007 figure by 67.1%.
Our vistors came from 73 different countries, with Germany, Canada, Norway, United Kingdom and Singapore representing the top five foreign countries. I am also happy to report that GermanWineEstates maintains a high level of returning viewers from around the world which signifies that the information found on these pages offers information which has proven to be useful in the various aspects of German wine appreciation.
I wish to thank all those who have enjoyed their visit to GWE in 2008, and hope that in 2009, the website will provide more interesting facts and information about German wine, making the GermanWineEstates The Site for German Wine Lovers.
 AustrianWineEstates is a website devoted to a selection of fine wine estates from Austria, whose wines are available in the United States through wine importer and distributor, Slocum & Sons, located in North Haven, Connecticut. This portfolio has been created by Eric Litchfield, the company's German and Austrian wine director, who has spent considerable time selecting producers that define today's highest standards of wine making. Mr. Litchfield's philosophy is to allow the wine producer and nature harmonize equally, utilizing sustainable agriculture, organic and biodynamic farming to reach the purest expression of grape varietal, micro-climate and terroir, yielding wines of supreme balance and elegance.
The time at which grapes flower is determinative for the subsequent quality of the wine. In the year 2008, as in the previous year, the growth season began three to four weeks earlier than normal.The wet summer provided good growth conditions for Riesling grapes.The changeable autumn weather was the cause of the long harvest period, which was prolonged to over 6 weeks.
The wine year 2008 will enter the record books as the year of the rootstock vineyards. All of our 50 to 90-year-old Riesling grapevines in Bernkastel, Wehlen, Graach and Ürzig withstood all of the adversity of the unstable weather and remained healthy. We were able to harvest grapes with good must density.
For the wine year 2008 we expect to produce vigorous, refreshing Rieslings with high extract content. In our top vineyard, the Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg, we expect a so-called "Großes Gewächs", which means "great growth".
In the Bernkasteler Johannisbrünnchen we still have grapes on the vine awaiting the required frost to be able to produce Eiswein (ice wine).
German wine-growers are more than satisfied with the size and quality of this year’s grape crop. Relatively cool autumn weather enabled grapes to ripen gradually and remain healthy. In all, quality ranges from good to very good, and even top qualities with more than 200 degrees Oechsle have been recorded. Crisp, lean white wines with a fresh, fruity acidity are typical for vintage 2008. The overall harvest is estimated at 10 to 10.5 million hectoliters. The German Wine Institute/Mainz has compiled a summary for each of Germany’s 13 wine-growing regions.
Ahr
Wine-growers in the Ahr Valley harvested their grapes for nearly six weeks, starting in mid-September with Frühburgunder, an early-ripening mutation of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), followed by Spätburgunder, and ending with Riesling. The healthy condition of the grapes enabled growers to harvest for such a long period. Patience paid off with a respectable average must weight of 85 degrees Oechsle. In some cases, red grapes reached more than 100 degrees. The crop yielded 85 hl/ha, with lower yields for white varietals and considerably higher yields for the red Pinots and Portugieser. The overall size of the harvest is not quite 50,000 hl, or some ten percent less than last year. In terms of quality, Ahr growers are comparing vintage 2008 with 2007. Clean musts lie in the cellars, and the reds are showing good color. Due to this year’s weather, acidity levels are higher than last year.
Baden
The harvest in Baden began with the Müller-Thurgau grape in mid-September, the main harvest about a week later. Thanks to cool nights and warm, sunny days with little rainfall, the harvest could proceed at an unhurried pace. It was not until early October that the harvest of Burgunder (Pinot) grapes began. Because the grapes were exceptionally healthy, growers were able to wait for the optimal moment of ripeness before picking. Harvesting continued well into the second half of the month, sufficient time for Spätburgunder grapes to take on a very deep color. Growers are pleased with the excellent quality of both white and red wines. Must weights for Spätburgunder, for example, were seldom below 90 degrees Oechsle. Gewürztraminer even reached Trockenbeerenauslese ripeness. The young wines are lively, with a pronounced fruitiness and a “playful” acidity. With average yields of not quite 90 hl/ha, the overall yield in Baden will be less than 1.4 million hl.
Franken
Lively, crisp and fresh; underpinned by a stable acidity; striking aromas – vintage 2008 in Franken. The wines are rich in flavor, but don’t have quite as much alcohol as in years past. They show good aging potential. In particular, consumers can look forward to terrific Silvaner wines. The grape crop in Franken is estimated to have yielded 445,000 ha, or some 80,000 hl less that last year. Yields are about 75 hl/ha, and must weights averaged 86 degrees Oechsle. Two thirds of the crop qualify for Prädikat status. The 2008 harvest in Franken will go down in history as one of the longest ever. Early varieties were already being harvested in mid-September. Thereafter, the weather was often variable – sometimes beautiful harvest weather, sometimes rain – nervewracking for growers. In the end: particularly the late-ripening varieties, such as Riesling and Silvaner, were clearly the winners.
Hessische Bergstrasse
Although a small number of wineries in the Hessische Bergstrasse still have a few grapes hanging on the vine in hope of being able to produce lusciously sweet wines, the main harvest began in mid-September and ended on 25 October with very good results: high must weights, good yields, and a ripe acidity are the hallmarks of vintage 2008 in this very small region with only 440 ha/ca. 1,100 acres of vines. Among the important varietals, such as Riesling and Spätburgunder, yields averaged 80 hl/ha. Riesling reached 85 degrees Oechsle and above. In terms of quantity and quality, the white wine harvest is similar to vintage 2004. With average must weights of 95 degrees Oechsle, growers expect powerful Spätburgunder wines, comparable with those of 2005. Overall, this year’s crop of roughly 35,000 hl is slightly larger than that of 2007.
Mittelrhein
The Riesling harvest in the Mittelrhein began in October. There was no need to rush, since grapes in the steep sites were healthy and water supplies were sufficient. The late start enabled the region’s principle variety, Riesling, to profit from a long growing season and ample time for fine aromas to develop. Approximately half of the crop qualified for Prädikat status, an indicator of this year’s good quality. With yields of ca. 100 hl/ha and an overeall anticipated quantity of 40,000 hl, this year’s harvest was the best in nearly a decade.
Mosel
Preliminary reports from growers in the Mosel region sum up the 2008 harvest as being of good quality and quantity. Even at the end of October the harvest had not completely ended in the steep sites in the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer valleys. Riesling, in particular, took advantage of the long ripening period to develop fruit aromas and extracts. As such, wine enthusiasts can once again look forward to elegant, juicy wines that are rich in fruit and minerals. In comparing vintage 2008 with years past, it’s being said that it is very good, albeit it not quite as exceptional as 2007. Due to variable autumn weather, growers had to resort to selective harvesting again. Early-ripening varieties could be picked as early as mid-September, but is wasn’t until mid-October that the main Riesling harvest began – with remarkable average must weights of 80 degrees Oechsle, while selectively harvested grapes registered 90 degrees and above. Müller-Thurgau and Elbling achieved average must weights of 70 and 65 degrees Oechsle, respectively. Grapes of the Burgunder (Pinot) family reached particularly high must weights (90 degrees and higher). In all, the size of the crop is estimated at 930,000 hl maximum, or 20,000 hl fewer than in 2007.
Nahe
Growers in the Nahe region are talking about a “vintage made to order,” since both quantity and quality are satisfactory. The harvest was underway by 20 September, and in the upper Nahe (western portion of the region), will not be completed before early November. Cool weather in September prompted growers to “wait and see” rather than harvest too early. As such, little by little must weights continued to rise to respectable, above-average levels: for Müller-Thurgau, Portugieser and/or Dornfelder ca. 75 degrees Oechsle; Weiss- or Grauburgunder (Pinot Blanc or Gris), usually more than 90 degrees. Red varietals planted in vineyards with restricted yields also achieved comparable must weights. As such, the “vintage made to order” supplies sufficient quantities of QbA and Prädikat wines (up to Spätlese and Auslese) to restock many a depleted cellar. With regard to higher qualities, i.e. lusciously sweet wines, this vintage cannot match that of 2007. Comparisons with vintage 1998 are being made. Often, good results in 2008 required a selective preharvest. In addition to high must weights this year, the young Nahe wines are showing a refreshing acidity. Yields of more than 100 hl/ha will probably result in an overall crop size of ca. 450,000 hl.
Pfalz
Heavy rainfall in mid-September reminded many Pfalz growers of the harvest in 2006. As such, the harvest quickly began. Cool temperatures during the nights thereafter, though, considerably alleviated fears of a repeat of the 2006 scenario just as quickly, and the rest of the harvest calmly proceeded into the second half of October. Prior to harvesting, growers took advantage of the extra time to remove bunches affected with botrytis. The delay also helped reduce acidity levels in the grapes. The young wines of the new vintage are on the lean side, but have good structure and stimulating acidity, show typical varietal fruit, and promise to be enjoyable to drink. The red wines are surprisingly deep in color, and have promising, firm tannins. Throughout the region there were also batches harvested with excellent must weights above 95 degrees Oechsle, but often quantities were lower than desired. Even grapes of Beeren- and Trockenbeerenauslese ripeness, such as a Rieslaner with 240 degrees Oechsle, could be harvested here and there, albeit with great effort. A higher proportion of Prädikat wines could be harvested in 2007; nevertheless, more than a third of this year’s crop qualifies for Prädikat status. Riesling and the white Pinots Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder achieved very good must weights (on average, between 85 and 95 degrees Oechsle), as did Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), with a remarkable average must weight of 95 degrees Oechsle. Once again the overeall size of the crop was slightly above the long-term average and is estimated at 2.4 million hl. Growers are calling it a “vintage made to order” – there is lively demand for the good quality and sufficient quantity of vintage 2008.
Rheingau
After cool weather in September, Rheingau growers decided to wait until October before beginning with the harvest of Riesling and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), the region’s two most important grape varieties. It was not until the second week of October that the Riesling harvest reached its peak. For the most part, must weights reached 80 to 85 degrees Oechsle. As such, the 2008 vintage will be known particularly for high-quality Kabinett wines. Growers are satisfied with the size of the crop, which is ca. ten percent higher than the long-term average of 250,000 hl.
Rheinhessen
Germany’s largest wine-growing region, Rheinhessen, anticipates a relatively large harvest in 2008. Estimates lie between 2.9 to 3.0 million hl. Mother Nature bestowed no gifts upon wine-growers in 2008, but many opportunities that growers took advantage of. By mid-September, particularly in the southern portion of the region, many estates began with a selective harvest, whereby only healthy bunches were left on the vine to continue ripening. The harvest essentially ended during the last week of October with better qualities than had been anticipated a month before. Rieslings in good sites adjacent to the Rhine, for example, achieved must weights of 90 degrees Oechsle; Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), 80 degrees; and Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), 90 degrees. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) also performed well in terms of quality. Silvaner, a varietal typical of Rheinhessen, responded well to growers’ quality-oriented measures – a broad range of ripeness levels were harvested, including grapes suitable for the region’s prestigious, top-quality “Selection Rheinhessen” wines. It’s worth mentioning that this vintage yielded considerably fewer lusciously sweet wines than in the past. In terms of quality, comparisons with vintage 2004 are being made; in terms of quantity, the size of the crop is similar to that of 1999.
Saale-Unstrut
Growers in the Saale-Unstrut region harvested some 50,000 hl of grape juice this year, or 2,000 hl more than in 2007. The harvest began in mid-September and ended in late October. Late-ripening varietals, in particular, were harvested up to 14 days later than usual, which resulted in higher must weights. Individual growers even report very good results, with must weights of 95 degrees Oechsle for Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) or Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier). This year, late-ripening varieties were clearly the winners. The wines are appealing with their pure, distinctive fruitiness – comparable with last year’s vintage in terms of quality. Many Saale-Unstrut growers have left a few grapes on the vine in hope of a possible Eiswein harvest. Last year, the frosty temperatures necessary for this specialty were not in the cards.
Sachsen
Despite a timely bud burst and early blossoming, the grape harvest in Sachsen did not begin earlier than normal. Cool weather in early September delayed the start until the middle of the month. One month later, with the harvest of Riesling and Gewürztraminer, the main harvest in 2008 was completed. Yields were only about 55 hl/ha, and thus, the total size of the crop is a mere 23,500 hl – comparable with the results of last year’s harvest. Must weights were the same or slightly above longstanding values and overall, Sachsen’s 2008 vintage is of good average quality. Two-thirds of the crop yielded QbA wines; one-third, Prädikat wines. The new wines are expected to be fairly light and fruity.
Württemberg
Vintage 2008 was very good in Württemberg. Must weights were remarkable. Thanks to warm, sunny days alternating with cool nights during the ripening period, all varieties have well-developed, ripe aromas. As such, consumers can look forward to wines with a pronounced varietal character. The harvest of the early-ripening varietals Acolon (a crossing of Lemberger and Dornfelder), Müller-Thurgau and Dornfelder began in mid-September. The entire harvest of late-ripening varieties, such as Trollinger, Lemberger and Riesling, took place in October. Weather conditions were stable and late autumn days sunny, thereby enabling growers to wait for aromas to fully develop and harvest at the optimal moment. Must weights of the most important varieties were mostly 75 to 85 degrees Oechsle, or solid Kabinett and Spätlese wines. This year’s crop yielded about ten percent less than in 2007. Yields were approximately 100 hl/ha, so that the total quantity harvested is around 1.15 million hl – nearly 90 million liters of which were harvested by Württemberg’s “Weingärtnergenossenschaften,” or cooperative wineries. Red grape varieties accounted for nearly three-fourths of the harvest.
Grape Must Harvest in Germany in 2008: Preliminary Estimates
As of 30 October 2008
In Germany, the main harvest of the 2008 grape crop is now underway. The first batches of early-ripening varietals, such as Rivaner (Müller-Thurgau), Portugieser or Frühburgunder (an early-ripening cousin of Pinot Noir) have already been harvested in the Baden, Pfalz and Rheinhessen regions. According to German Wine Institute spokesperson Ernst Büscher: "As of mid-September, the growth of the crop and the development of grape aromas are promising and bode well for the quality of the vintage in 2008."
The first estimates of the size of the 2008 harvest have just been released by the German Wine-growers' Association in Bonn - a yield of some 10 million hectoliters is expected, comparable with the average yield of recent years.
Vegetation throughout the growing season and ripening stage have been constant and without problems. Nevertheless, weather conditions during the next few weeks are extremely important, not least with regard to the harvest of later-ripening varieties, such as Riesling. As in every year, all vintners hope for an "Indian summer" with warm, sunny days - in Germany, known as a "golden October," during which late-ripening varietals continue to develop not only their natural sugar, but also their mineral content and aromas.
At this standpoint, all wine enthusiasts can look forward to a good 2008 vintage in Germany, which promises wines of substance and good fruit.
According to a recent survey by Wine Opinions, a research provider to the U.S. wine industry, Americans across multiple demographics frequently purchase and recommend German wines. The wines are particularly popular among wine importers and distributors, retail, restaurant and hospitality employees as well as Americans under the age of forty.
Hospitality and beverage professionals gave high quality ratings to German wines overall and especially in regards to white wines, when compared the other nine wine-exporting countries evaluated in the study. While all other white wines received an average quality score of 2.93 on a four-point scale, the average respondent ranking for Mosel wines was a 3.59, the highest average rating given a white wine. Furthermore, Rheingau wines received a 3.27 quality rating, with one-third of respondents considering the wines of Rheingau and Rheinhessen "outstanding" (38 percent and 31 percent, respectively).
The high quality scores reflect a rapidly growing affinity for German white wines among wine industry professionals that is spreading to consumers. More than a quarter of consumer survey respondents - 29 percent - said they purchased a white German wine within the last six months. In terms of white wine purchases, Germany was second only to France and New Zealand (both 31 percent). Of the German white wine purchasers, 36 percent of the respondents were in their 20s and 30s, revealing a growing preference for German white wines among younger Americans. Furthermore, while only 9 percent between the ages of 60 and 69 said they were "very likely" to purchase German white wines, 25 percent of those between the ages of 21 and 29 said they were "very likely" to purchase the wines.
When respondents were asked on an unaided basis to indicate their favorite wine or type of wine from Germany, Riesling was the top response by a wide margin for consumers (65 percent) and 53 percent from trade.
"Whether it be a crisp Riesling or dry Pinot Noir, we believe that the diversity, complexity and quality of German wines make them some of the finest in the world," said Monika Reule, managing director of the Deutsches Weininstitut. "That such a wide variety of people enjoy our wine reaffirms that belief, and we will continue to export high quality wine to the U.S. market."
The Imported Wine Comparative Survey measured consumer attitudes, purchases, evaluations and taste preferences for wines from 10 wine-exporting countries: Australia, Argentina, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, New Zealand, Portugal, Spain and South Africa. The survey was fielded to the Wine Opinions consumer panel, which consists of 805 wine drinkers, the largest online panel of high frequency wine consumers ever assembled. A Wine Opinions trade panel of 109 pre-screened participants was also surveyed in order to gauge industry attitudes toward imported wines.
The German wine industry reports impressive sales figures for the preceding year. German wine is currently in vogue, particularly Riesling, and the premium wine category posted the lion’s share of profits in 2007 thereby remaining the driving force behind sales developments. The 198 members of Germany’s Prädikat Wine Estates (VDP) could also draw a good balance in line with this trend, both in the domestic market and abroad. Thanks to these profits, estates have been able to make numerous investments that will help secure not only their own future, but also that of top-quality wines in Germany.
The Prädikat Wine Estates: Sales Structure in 2007
Due to the small size of the crop in 2006, VDP members could only partially meet demand in 2007. As such, sales volume remained at 35 million bottles, as in 2006. The average price per bottle rose slightly, to Euro 8,90 (2006: Euro 8,50). Export volume reached only 80% of the preceding year, but as VDP president Steffen Christmann points out, this, too, is related to the small size of the 2006 vintage, whereby domestic orders received priority over those from abroad. “I expect that we’ll see a return to increased export sales in 2008 when delayed shipments can be fulfilled.”
Domestic Market
The market for top-quality wines in Germany continues to develop on a positive note. The popularity of Riesling is no longer something new with the customers of the finest estates, yet still piques the curiosity of many wine enthusiasts since the varietal continues to generate positive press, motivate the specialty trade, and appeal to dynamic chefs – target groups that account for 50% of VDP wine sales. Regardless of color, white or red, “made in Germany” is in.
According to the Nürnberg-based Association for Consumer Research (GfK), 24% of domestic purchases take place in specialty wine shops or on site at estates, equivalent to a sales share of 40%. The average price per liter? per bottle? via these distribution channels is Euro 4,89 compared with Euro 2,55 in the grocery sector.
Export Market
With the exception of England, all European markets clearly showed indications of growth for VDP estates. Demand in the USA is also good, but the poor Euro-to-dollar exchange rate is having a negative impact. The Japanese market requires patience and perseverence. In general, VDP estates are becoming more involved in export markets and expect to see positive results from these efforts within the coming years.
Investments
Diverse investments in numerous estates bear witness to the positive side effects of the renaissance of top-quality German wines. Tangible profits from improved sales have enabled many estates to finally implement modernizations that have been “on hold” for several years. All efforts are investments designed to improve quality.
• Cellar storage facilities for fermentaton and aging are being upgraded – whether large oak casks, stainless steel tanks or small barrique casks – in order to provide options for very individual fermentation and aging. In their quest to improve wine quality, growers are also striving to optimize grape processing and fermentation procedures.
• No less important are investments in the vineyards. Steep sites are not only labor-intensive to work, but also require a great deal of funds to repair (stone terraces, for example) and maintain (combat erosion). Establishing and maintaining paths to the vineyards, particularly those with difficult access, require considerable financial resources. Yet these are the sites that are synonymous with great terroir conditions and top-quality wines. Since VDP member estates have holdings in a large number of these sites that yield Germany’s finest wines, they have a great responsibility and interest in vineyard maintenance.
• Enormous investments are also being made in estate buildings – many of which are being converted into vinotheks (wine shops/tasting rooms) and attractive rooms for events. Wine tourism (guest rooms at wine estates – spend your vacation here) is another area of increasing importance.
• Last but not least: funds are being invested to employ more people to professionally handle the production of first-class wines, many of which are organic.
In closing, Steffen Christman sums up: “All the years of striving for quality improvement are finally having an impact in an almost ideal marketplace. The qualitative and economic success of the VDP estates is exemplary in the German wine industry. It is finally enabling estates to invest in their own future – and in the future of top-quality wines in Germany.”
It is now May of 2008, and I have finally been able to collect my thoughts and impressions of the newly arriving 2007 vintage German wines compared with the 2006 vintage which is still currently on the market. To fuel my research, I have had the privilege of tasting the brand new 2007 vintage German Rieslings with several notable winemakers and estate proprietors, namely Robert Eymael of Mönchhof Estate in the Mosel, Fritz Hasselbach of Gunderloch in the Rheinhessen, Dorothee Zilliken of Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in the Saar, and Stefan Gerhard of Stefan Gerhard Estate in the Rheingau. As well, I have tasted 2007 barrel and tank samples of Wegeler, Schnaitmann, Kunstler, and Von Buhl with importer Rudi Wiest of Rudi Wiest Selections back in February.
The 2007 vintage in Germany has been described as a long and glorious growing season, with exceptionally early budbreak in May following an unseasonably hot April. The entire growing season was near ideal, a warm summer followed by a cool autumn, culminating in a mostly rain-free harvest season which did not rush picking. Good harvest weather allowed for multiple passes through the vineyard to select exactly what the winemakers were looking for, from dry styles to Kabinett-level wines to later harvest styles.
The 2007 harvest was such a contrast to the previous year, when there was a mad dash in the vineyard, with pickers working double shifts in a race against time, in order to save grapes from rot. Botrytis spread quickly through the vineyards, concentrating the grape must and giving the final wines that delicious and rich honeyed flavor that we so love in our Auslesen and noble sweet wines. However, in 2006, Kabinetts and even Spätlese wines were limited due to the scarcity of clean, non-botrytized fruit, and total yields were down 50% from other vintages as so many grapes were lost and selected out when they didn't make the cut.
In contrast, 2007 yields were good, with plenty of clean, non-botrytized fruit allowing for plenty of dry wine production (which prefers clean fruit) and all Pradikat levels and styles. Some observers may be confused when the statement is made that higher yields and higher quality is seen in 2007 Germany, because so often in the press, low yields are equated with high quality, but this is not always the case. In 2007, it is not so much a situation of high yields, but normal yields of good fruit with optimal physiologic ripeness, balanced acidity, and flavorful minerality. These were attained through that prolonged, cool growing season which allowed for slow development, plenty of time to extract minerals from the soil and to develop fruity acids.
And now, onto the aroma and flavor profile of the wines. The 2007s seem to be winning many fans with their bright, fresh aromas and wonderfully balanced palates. Overall, the wines exhibit a fruity and layered perfume that many find more captivating than 2006s, which, in direct comparison, have more muted and denser noses. On the palate, 2007s exhibit succulence from good acidity buffered with clean fruit. There is zip and elegance. The 2006s on the palate exhibit more richness, sweetness, and weight, more honeyed nuances, sometimes with an acid structure that includes lime, but more often with dried apricot and red fruits. The 2007s often exhibit more focus and precision - more cut.
There will be much excitement in the coming months with the 2007 vintage German wines rolling in, the first ones already on wine store shelves, the next wave currently on the water, and the vast majority of them still awaiting bottling and being released in the summer and fall. I admit to looking forward to having all the 2007s like everyone else. But at the same time, I am confident that the 2006s will still be popular, as they have been for the last 10 months, delivering so much in the way of drinking pleasure, a vintage with rich, opulent flavors and great density filling the mouth and staying there for a superb, long finish.
Furthermore, the 2006s are such relative bargains as they were on our shores prior to the dollar trading at all-time lows against the Euro. I know I'll still be buying 2006s and drinking them now and putting them away for the future, when they will lose some of their baby fat and show off all the character they have underneath the sweet fruit.
In summary, I'll personally be enjoying great German wines from both of these fine vintages, and embracing the characteristics that I love in each. To be sure, these two vintages in Germany make it fun to vive la difference!
Nancy Deprez is the German wine manager for the specialty wine retailer, The Wine Country and the writer for the blog Nancy On Wine.
Thanks to early bud burst and optimal autumn weather, German wine grapes had an unusually long growing season in 2007. This year’s harvest was relatively unhurried and took place over several weeks. Grape musts and young wines are showing well, with a fabulous wealth of aromas, high ripeness and extract levels, and a well-integrated, harmonious – yet marked – acidity. After last year’s small harvest, growers are also very satisfied with the size of this year’s crop: in all, estimated to be ca. 10.5 – 11 million hectoliters. A résumé of this year’s harvest in the 13 wine-growing regions, compiled by the German Wine Institute in Mainz, follows.
Vintage 2007 – Regional Conditions
In the Ahr, the Frühburgunder (an early-ripening Pinot Noir) harvest began in late August and ended with the Riesling harvest during the second week of October. Yields – approaching 100 hl/ha – were quite satisfactory, and for this small red wine region, above average in size. The prognosis is for an overall quantity of 54,000 hl. Yields were higher for Portugieser, lower for Früh- and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Must weights ranged mostly between 70 and 100 degrees Oechsle; Spätburgunder, in particular, achieved high must weights. Thanks to ideal weather conditions during the ripening period, the grapes were able to develop high extracts. The ratio of quantity to quality is described as optimal. The crop was healthy and there were no problems with fermentation. Vintage 2007 Weissherbst (rosé) will be bottled shortly to meet the high demand for this category.
In Baden, the harvest ended in mid-October and Baden vintners view 2007 as a very good vintage. The harvest itself and its results are described as a “dream of a harvest.” Equally wonderful were the weather conditions – a golden October – calm autumn weather with cool nights and sunny days that fostered the development of a spectrum of aromas. Wine lovers can look forward to outstanding wines from the 2007 vintage. According to a local wine-growers’ advisor: “Across the board, regardless of variety, the aromas and color of these wines are extraordinary. We haven’t seen the likes of this for quite some time.” Not only were there impressive must weights for Spätburgunder and Riesling, but also specialties, such as Gewürztraminer or Gutedel, showed well. After the first tastings of the young wines, cellar masters are describing the vintage as remarkable for its grandiose wealth of aromas, as well as its perceptible, yet well-integrated, wine acidity. They expect red wines with great depth of color and longevity. Not only is the high quality welcome, but also the quantity harvested – to help alleviate shortages after several small crops. In all, Baden’s 16,000 ha yielded a crop of ca. 1.2 million hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha – more than in 2006.
The harvest in Franken started in early September – but growers with patience were rewarded with a sunny October. After a damp summer, very selective harvesting was necessary in order to achieve (ultimately) quite satisfactory results. The first Müller-Thurgau wines of 2007 are aromatic, fresh and fruity; Silvaner, another important varietal in Franken, is showing a fine, elegant note. Only Bacchus grapes had a lower-than-average yield, due to sunburn. About three quarters of the wine musts reached Prädikat wine levels; the average must weight was a remarkably high 87 degrees Oechsle. The region’s 6,000 ha of vineyards yielded somewhat more than half a million hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha. This is a seven percent increase in quantity over the year before, which will help replenish low stocks prior to the harvest.
The Hessische Bergstrasse, Germany’s second smallest wine region, is known above all for its Rieslings, but other varieties are at home there, too. At the end of August, for example, the Frühburgunder harvest began. In mid-October, after the Riesling harvest, the last Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were gathered. Growers willing to postpone the start of their harvest were able to achieve considerably higher qualities, particularly with their Riesling grapes. For the first time, red Riesling was harvested. This rarity is believed to be a forerunner of the white Riesling we know today. Spätburgunder must weights were remarkably high; Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) required a very selective harvest and yields were disappointingly low. Overall, the crop was a good 35,000 hl, with an average yield of 85 hl/ha – significantly more than in 2006, when quantities barely met supply. For this reason, the first bottlings of 2007 are expected on the market in early November.
The harvest in the Mittelrhein began in mid-September with a few early-ripening varieties, but the main harvest didn’t end until the last week of October. Both quantity and quality are remarkable in this Riesling region. The overall yield is somewhat above the long-term average and considerably above the year before. In all, some 40,000 hl are expected, equal to a yield of 90 hl/ha. Riesling, in particular, benefited from the long growing season, with optimal proportions of sugar (average of 100 degrees Oechsle) to acidity. Red grapes, such as Spätburgunder, were also harvested in a healthy state, at up to 100 degrees Oechsle, with a slightly higher acidity than the year before.
Due to the northerly location of the region and the significance of the late-ripening varietal Riesling, it comes as no surprise that the Mosel growers are among the last to start harvesting. Müller-Thurgau and Elbling (ancient white variety, cultivated primarily in the upper Mosel, along the border with Luxembourg) were picked in the second half of September; the Riesling harvest began in October and – in estates with holdings in steep sites, where harvesting can only be done by hand – lasted the entire month. Ideal weather, with mostly dry, sunny autumn days as well as cool (at times cold) nights, made for a stress-free harvest. These weather conditions enabled growers to harvest their crop at an optimal ripeness level. The 2007 wines from the valleys of the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer are expected to be particularly rich in minerals and extracts. Steep-site Riesling grapes had considerable time to absorb minerals from the slate soil – ultimately reflected in a wine’s aroma and flavor. This year’s growing season (the time between blossoming and harvest) was particularly long: 100 days is the norm; in 2007: 120 to 150 days. Consumers can expect well-structured wines with straightforward fruit aromas/flavors. Must weights primarily reached Prädikat levels, often 100 degrees Oechsle and above. The region’s nearly 9,000 ha yielded an estimated 925,000 hl and thus, some 85,000 hl more than in 2006.
The Müller-Thurgau harvest in mid-September marked the start of the harvest in the Nahe, ending with the Riesling harvest in the second half of October. Patience was rewarded – particularly for Riesling, which achieved must weights of 90 to 95 degrees Oechsle. Cool October nights slowed down a reduction in acidity in the white wine varietals, and the young wines have a harmonious ratio of ripeness to crispness. Red varietals, too, profited from a later harvest: Spätburgunder grapes reached Oechsle levels well over 80 degrees. In all, a considerable amount of Prädikatswein is expected. Yields: 100 hl/ha – good news for Nahe growers. An estimated 430,00 hl were harvested – a fourth more than in the preceding year.
Earlier than usual – mid-August – some growers in the Pfalz harvested grapes for Federweisser (fermenting grape juice) and the last of the new wine was sold at the end of October. The harvest in the Pfalz usually takes place over months – unlike the stressful and hectic circumstances a year ago. In contrast to the year before, this year’s sunny autumn led to a considerable increase in must weights for both white and red varietals, which in turn, has led to an exceptionally high niveau of red and white wines. Acidity values are higher than in the “esteemed” vintage 2003 – particularly good news for Riesling wines. The harvest was relatively large – 2.5 million hl – and is welcome to meet demand. Quality is also well above average. Growers had time to harvest at the optimal time of ripeness, taking into consideration the various growth periods of different varietals, and could fill their portfolios accordingly. Consumers can expect a great selection of very good wines at all quality levels.
Rheingau growers began harvesting in mid-September, with young wines showing a prominent acidity. A month later, the Rieslings were more harmonious and riper, with higher must weights. Export-oriented wineries that specialize in lusciously sweet wines harvested until the end of October. Already in October, a traditional wine estate achieved a record must weight of more than 300 degrees Oechsle. In some vineyards, grapes are still hanging – in hopes of an Eiswein harvest. Under ideal autumn weather conditions, every grower could harvest exactly what was needed for his/her portfolio. The end of the growing season was particularly favorable for the most important grape variety of the Rheingau, Riesling. It’s said to be a “typical” Riesling vintage. The region’s most important red variety, Spätburgunder, also achieved high ripeness levels at the hand of patient wine-growers. Growers welcome the above-average crop – many a wine on a price list was sold out. The yield was above 80 hl/ha, in all at least a total of 250,000 hl. The excellent quality of vinage 2007 is also reflected by increased demand for bulk wines.
In Germany’s largest wine-growing region, Rheinhessen, this year’s harvest is described as quite good, often compared with the 2002 and 2004 vintages. Many a grower is not sparing with superlatives, such as “wonderful qualities after an ideal autumn” or “sensational vintage.” Grapes were picked throughout September, but it was primarily the grapes harvested in October that achieved the above-average ripeness levels that are the hallmark of this vintage. As such, the growing season for some vines stretched over 140 days rather than the necessary absolute minimum of 100 days. This was optimal for Riesling, which showed its best with an average must weight of 85 degrees Oechsle, as well as for Rheinhessen’s other traditional varietals, e.g. Silvaner (80 degrees Oechsle) and Pinots, which for the most part, were harvested with 90 degrees Oechsle. Warm days and cold nights yielded elegant wines with brisk acidity, fruitiness, and an expressive play of aromas. Harvest yields are estimated at 115 hl/ha, well above average, for a total yield of 2.9 million hl.
Although the vineyards suffered damage due to weather conditions – late frost in May, sunburn in July – the size of the crop in Saale-Unstrut is about that of last year’s good level. About 42,000 hl are expected, or a third more than usual. Since the development of the grapes was ahead of schedule, growers were able to start harvesting in early September. Some estates waited until the second half of October. The crop was healthy and posed no problems for cellar masters. Thanks to the long growing season, the wines are quite aromatic, very fruity, and marked by a lively acidity. With regard to quantity and quality: a good to very good vintage.
In Sachsen, more than two weeks earlier than usual, the harvest began in August, with the region’s early-ripening specialty, the rare Goldriesling (a Riesling x Courtillier Musqué crossing). For the most part, the harvest had ended by mid-October, not least because several rainy days prompted growers to quicken their pace. A primarily healthy crop was brought in, before the damp weather could lead to rot. Ripeness and acidity levels were, respectively, satisfactory and quite good – this bodes particularly well for Gewürztraminer. Overall, the wines of Germany’s smallest wine-growing region – less than 500 ha/1,235 acres – are rarities and regularly sold out, even at relatively high prices. Despite the good quantity harvested in 2007, this situation is not likely to change. Estimated quantity: 20,000 hl.
The harvest in Württemberg – a six-week period of picking that ended in the second half of October – yielded good qualities and a marketable quantity. Yields are estimated to be 110 hl/ha, with an overall quantity of 1.2 to 1.3 million hl. Württemberg’s strength lies in the red wine sector (ca. 75 percent of the harvest), with varieties such as Trollinger, Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier), and Lemberger (Blaufränkisch). Yields for Trollinger and Lemberger were slightly above average, whereas yields for early-ripening white varieties, such as Kerner or Müller-Thurgau, fell short of the long-term average. The Riesling crop, however, was larger than last year and will help alleviate supply problems for the region’s most important white varietal. The overall harvesting period was able to be extended, thanks to mild weather, influenced by high pressure. In addition, this fostered both an increase in must weights and the development of ripe aromas – reflected in the first bottlings of white wines of the new vintage.
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I am pleased to report from DOMDECHANT WERNER again about a blessed Riesling vintage 2007:The quality is excellent and the quantity good. I am grateful for the gracious gift of nature.
The weather was exceptional: Early spring with heat in April, very early blosseming, then cold and wet in May, followed by a heat-wave in July and finally a wonderful autumn. Thanks to a very careful pre-selection of all damaged grapes, I harvested ripe and healthy grapes, which give clean and brilliant Riesling. The must-weight was predominantely between 90° and 100°, which is typical for the Spätlese and Auslese level. The acidity is round and mature.The first degustation of young wines show elegance, fruitiness and fascinating minerality with balanced acidity.
The vintage 2007 will include the broad spectrum from charming “Riesling Classic” through successful Kabinett, fine Spätlese up to wonderful Auslese and the famous “Erstes Gewächs”, toped by a rare Beerenauslese.The range includes the modern dry style as well the traditional sweeter Riesling.
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