Older Tasting Notes
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THE RATING SYSTEM
GermanWineEstates uses a ürating system. I have used this for years, and have found it to be simple to understand when looking back through my notes. It is my belief that this is a fair and objective method in determining the quality of a wine.
Note: These tasting notes represent wines that are almost always above average in quality, therefore there will be few wines receiving no ümarks. GWE is dedicated to provide useful reviews on the best wines from Germany. It is not the intention to fill this website with worthless information. Therefore, the tasting notes found here have been carefully selected from a large number of wines tasted.
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Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) trocken 2002
While Germany is the land of white wine where the noble Riesling reigns supreme, it is important not to forget the wonderful red wines that are produced throughout the country. Germany appears to be perfectly suited to Spätburgunder, a varietal which expresses itself magnificently in the cooler climatic viticultural regions of the world, producing wines of scintillating aromas, delicate, silky flavors and superb elegance. It is in Germany that the regal Pinot Noir ranks as the crown prince.
From Schloss Schönborn's prestigious vineyards in the Rheingau comes this lively, elegant and simply delicious Pinot Noir from the 2002 vintage. Dark strawberry in color, with a whiff of delicate Pinot fruit in the bouquet, the wine sings of delicacy and grace on the palate, with hints of licorice and spiced cherry notes in flavor. Refreshingly crisp, bright and soft tannins accentuate the wine's charming character. üü
Estate Riesling 2003
The Estate Riesling 2003 is a spectacular wine with gobs of style and sophistication. With all fruit being produced from the wine estate's own vineyards, some of the Rheingau's most prized parcels, this QbA is always a crowd pleaser because of the wine's overall quality at this price level. Off-dry with wonderful flavors of ginger, orange rind and crushed minerals, the wine just sizzles with its wispy, zippy finish. üü+
Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett 2002
Big and bold for a Kabinett with excellent ripeness, this delicious wine fills the palate with intriguing flavors of tangerine, orange and spice notes. A slight hint of sun-warmed wet stone in the finish adds to the complexity of this charming wine. üü+
Rüdersheimer Berg Schlossberg Spätlese 2002
From this precipitously steep vineyard, nestled along the banks of the majestic Rhine River, comes this fabulous Riesling. The soil of the Berg Schlossberg is comprised predominantly of slate and iron ore which provide a strong backbone to this lovely Spätlese, filling it with almost Mosel-like intensity of flavor. With flavors hinting of lemon-lime gum drops and crisp Granny Smith apples, the wine radiates with bright hues of spicy elegance. üüü
Rüdersheimer Berg Rottland Auslese 2001
As challengingly steep as the Rüdersheimer Berg Schlossberg with the same overall soil composition, The Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese 2001 is the absolute pinnacle of quality from the stable of this estate's superb wines from the 2001 vintage. One whiff of this beauty and you know you're in for something special. A burst of tropical fruit essences explode from the glass as one takes a sniff, literarily dazzling the nasal passages with the wine's alluring bouquet. The flavor elevates the sensory enjoyment of this wine, filling the palate with notes of passion fruit, tangerine, mango and papaya. Sublime! üüü
Estate Riesling 2003
Beautiful nose here with its hints of warmed slate and gun smoke, this delicious wine is full and opulent with textbook ripe apple and wet stone flavor. Yummy. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2003
Gorgeous flavor of lemon-lime gum drop with a dash of mineral elements in the back. Sleek and refined, this beauty glides along the palate with well-balanced grace and elegance. Charming. üü+
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2003
Nice. Full and spicy in the aroma with a hint of ripe, cooked-apple essence, this lovely wine offers suggestions of orange-apple and pulverized stone in flavor, which is long and complex due to the well-integrated acidity. üü+
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2003
Apple pie and cinnamon with a touch of mineral elements in the bouquet, this wonderful wine has perfect fruit/acidity balance. Typical of a great Mosel wine, this complex Auslese is sleek, refined and graceful. üü+
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 2003
Wow, this wine is really superb. Incredibly complex, this treat is filled with hints of wood smoke and baked apple in the nose. Flavors abound with intense essences of lemon zest, vanilla, and Granny Smith apple. The finish is long and complete with an excellent level of crisp, ripe acidity. üüü
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese 2003
Another winner from this fabled estate, this gorgeous Spätlese brims with elegance and finesse with its bright, spritzy, crisp flavor which hints of lemon candy drops. So complex, so brilliant this gem will reward those who have the patience to age this beauty for 5-10 years. üüü
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese 2003
Young, intense with unleashed potential like a school boy ready to run his first race, this monumental wine displays all the characteristics of a winner. Brilliant levels of concentrated flavor along with outstandingly ripe acidity, this treasure displays the perfect balance of fruit/acidity, especially for an Auslese. Magnificent. üüü+
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese 2003***
Thanisch at its best. The 2003 vintage wines at this estate are uniformly superb, with this particular wine the most regal of them all. Immense depth and concentration with hints of botrytis, this wine never loses the luster of its brilliance and clarity, like polished marble. This is surely Riesling at its finest.
üüü+/üüüü
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2003
Wonderful hints of floral notes and crushed minerals in the bouquet, this light-bodied and delicate Riesling from Christoffel tastes of sun-drenched daffodils with an overlay of lemon/lime zest. ü+
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2003
Persistent favor of ginger and lime rind which is enwrapped with a spicy tang in the back, this lovely wine is ever so slightly more complex than the Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett. This well-crafted Kabinett adds more punch in flavor and displays a longer finish. üü+
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese 2003
Nice wine here, with plenty of stuffing and firm acidity, the bouquet offers a fine aroma of wet stone and wood smoke, with crisp flavors of green apple, lemon shavings, and vanilla. üü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2003
Here is an absolutely beautiful wine from this esteemed producer, located in the picturesque village of Ürzig. Very intense with marvelous character, this beauty offers wonderfully spicy mineral and herbal elements of flavor, enhanced by a hint of vanilla bean. The finish is very long, with no shortage of ripe acidity. The 2003 vintage wines from Christoffel are truly exquisite and this beauty is certainly no exception. üüü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 2003*
With a brilliant nose offering wonderful mineral elements and accentuated by a strong whiff of lemon custard, this gorgeous Auslese sings of grace and elegance with its classically beautiful structure, filled with bright and seductive essences of flavor so typical of the Mosel. üü+
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 2003**
Very intense and youthful, this wine pulsates with abound energy, like a long distance runner waiting at the starting line, ready to burst forth. With a pungent, slatey mineral essence in the aroma this delicious Riesling offers explosive flavors of herbal, creamy notes which are enhanced by the ripe, pruney hints that can be found at the end. üüü
Schloss Hallburg Müller-Thurgau Kabinett trocken 2003
At 13% alcohol, this delicious wine from the Franken wine district has plenty of power and dry flavor. There is a wonderfully attractive hint of pear both in the nose and flavor of the wine, which is accentuated by invigorating acidity. ü
Schloss Hallburg Hallburger Schlossberg Silvaner Kabinett trocken 2003
Wonderfully firm dry flavor with an overtly attractive level of brisk acidity, enhancing the wine's polished character, this little gem is filled with personality. For the fan of crisp dry white wine with a sparkling glean of peppery, spicy flavor, this is made for you. ü+
Erbacher Marcobrunn "Erstes Gewächs" 2003
The Erstes Gewächs (Premier Cru) vineyard, the Erbacher Marcobrunn, in a dry style really sings in this vintage with its powerful and full flavor. This wine speaks of baroque splendor, offering extravagant concentration and richly ornate flavors that are empowered by a ravishingly, long finish. üüü
Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett 2003
This is a beautiful Kabinett which sings of pure, crystalline elegance. With a nose of ripe green fruits the Marcobrunn Kabinett tingles the palate with its flavors of ripe pear, crisp apple and mineral notes. No shortage of acidity, this wine packs a long and exhilarating finish. üü
Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Auslese*** 2003
Brilliant complexity here with flavors to match, this liquid treasure is simply a spectacular achievement in winemaking. With just a hint of botrytis in the nose, the wine is filled with ripe, raisinous character aligned with an intoxicatingly high level of bright acidity. Sublime. üüü
Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2003
At 250° Oechsle, this wine simply blows away the minimum ripeness level to qualify for TBA status. It defies description, not allowing the mind to envision the complexity and flavor of this otherworldly tour de force. This monumentally syrupy liquid of gold coats the palate with so much raisinous flavor and death-defying, razor-sharp acidity that it is impossible to comprehend how this is all possible. This is surely the majesty of Riesling dressed in its most noble robe. üüü+/üüüü
Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett trocken 2003
A beauty with stony, minerally flavors combined with hints of yeast, this dry wine has full intense flavor with wonderfully crisp acidity. üü
Riesling "Classic" 2003
Excellent effort from Domdechant Werner with 11 grams of sugar, making it an off-dry wine, it has spicy, minerally hints with loads of zippy, crisp, fruity acidity in the back. Nice. üü
Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett 2003
Loads of fruit flavor in this attractive Rheingau wine, with succulent hints of cranberry, cherry and grapefruit, this charmer packs a wallop of nice acidity in the long finish. üü+
Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese 2003
The 2003 vintage was a superb one for Domdechant Werner. Having met and tasted with Michael Bott, the estate's winemaker, he summed up the vintage as one which produced wonderful grapes due to the optimal weather conditions throughout the summer. With very warm temperatures during the daylight hours combined with cool summer evenings, this provided an ideal environment for grapes of excellent richness and acidity. Mr. Bott also mentioned that vineyards, especially those in Hochheim, which are relatively flat and are capable of retaining water, fared much better than the steeper sites which cannot maintain sufficient moisture to optimally ripen grapes. For these reasons, Domdechant Werner produced wines of spellbinding excellence at the various quality levels of ripeness especially those from it’s parcels in the first-class Hochheim vineyard sites, Domdechaney and Kirchenstück.
The Gault Millau Wine Guide Deutschland 2005, an authoritative German wine publication, said the following of Domdechant Werner, "We are simply enthusiastic because of the quality of the 2003 wines and can not remember (having tasted) such a homogenous collection. Beginning with the harmonious basic wines up to the excellent Spätlesen and Auslesen from Domdechaney and Kirchenstück, we can recommend practically all wines."
The Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese 2003 is a gorgeous wine with its juicy lovely flavor which displays hints of ripe apple and walnuts. This rich Spätlese is invigoratingly fresh and fragrant that will develop nicely for many years to come. Patience will be the true reward. üüü
Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Spätlese 2003
Another winner from Domdechant Werner, this powerful wine has an earthy, spicy nose with a broadly concentrated flavor which is enhanced by the wine's superbly enticing acidity. Another wine for the cellar, this gem needs time. üüü
Estate Riesling 2003
What is this, an entry level wine from Dönnhoff? Well yes and no. Indeed, this is the Helmut Dönnhoff's most basic wine, the starting point if you will, but with one taste of this beauty, one quickly realizes that there is no such thing as ordinary with this producer. This wine is as complex and complete as one would expect from Dönnhoff, sharing the polish and sophistication of its broad-shouldered big brothers, just slightly slimmer that's all. Without question though, this gorgeous wine stands out in a crowd, displaying classic beauty and sheer grace.
The fruit comes predominantly from the Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg vineyard which is comprised mainly of volcanic soil. This gives the wine its firm backbone and subtly smoky aroma. Because of the ripeness of fruit, hints of candy corn can also be found in the wine's delightful bouquet. Wonderfully crisp and intense, this stunning wine coats the palate with flavors of pear, vanilla bean and Mandarin orange, all supported by a razor-sharp level of bracing acidity. This is a stellar example of Dönnhoff at its best, even at the entry level! üüü
Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese 2002
The stable of wines produced by Karlsmühle in the 2002 vintage was one of exceptional quality. The Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett was reviewed at GermanWineEstates last November, with extremely favorable tasting notes (for a full review, please refer to 1 November 2003 of the "Older Tasting Notes" page). It was a wine of wonderful balance overall, accentuating the complexity and composition of the Karlsmühle style in 2002.
So now we have the big brother of the Kabinett this month, the Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese 2002, with all its finesse and glory. With an additional year in age, this gorgeous Spätlese sings of youth and vigor, exhibiting a bright green-yellow hue in color. The nose of the wine displays mineral notes derived from the slate soil, and is enhanced by a whiff of peach and lime. Seductive in flavor with its taste of sun-ripened tangerines and hints of vanilla bean and wet stone, this charming wine simply dances on the palate. Utterly delicious now, this beauty will age gracefully for many years to come. üüü
Estate Riesling 2002
The legendary Schloss Schönborn is one of the oldest family-owned wine estates in the world, with the von Schönborn family maintaining ownership since 1349. This aristocratic wine producer is making some of the finest wines in the Rheingau today, with Günter Thies, the estate's charming wine director, providing outstanding expertise in utilizing the winery's vast resources in making wines of extreme balance and harmony while keeping the best attributes of the Rheingau firmly in place.
The Estate Riesling 2002 from Schloss Schönborn is a charming wine with loads of style and sophistication. The quality of grapes used in making this delightfully delicious little QbA, is extremely high with all fruit being sourced from the wine estate's own vineyards, some of the Rheingau's most prized parcels. This "little" wine from this superlative winery is soooo much better than many other producers' wines at higher quality levels AND at higher prices. With an invigoratingly scintillating, off-dry flavor and wonderfully bright, crispy finish, this is total winner. üü+
Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken 2003
Nice balance with a wonderful zippy, crisp acidity that pushes the mineral, lime flavors all the way to the back palate. Lively and invigorating. üü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 2003
This scrumptious wine really adds zest to your life, with the citrus rind flavor that is packed with a rush of tangy, minerally acidity. Multi-dimensional wine here, with power and precision, yet without weight and cloying viscosity. üüü
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2003
Broader and more pungent than the Schlossberg, with a deep and concentrated flavor, that displays the heavier soil composition of the Sonnenuhr vineyard compared to the more slaty soil of the Schlossberg. üü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 2003
A beauty of a wine that scintillates the taste buds. Here is the perfect expression of the terroir of the Schlossberg, with hints of pulverized slate and lemon zest in the nose and marvelous flavors of ripe apple, green herb potpourri and lime juice. The length of this delicious wine is fine, with just the right amount of backbone in acidity to enliven the finish. üüü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese* 2003
This wine fully demonstrates the heat of the 2003 vintage along the Mosel River, with its brisk and warm character, offering wonderfully ripe, succulent, juicy and rich flavor. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2003
Wow! The nose alone makes one salivate, for the bouquet burns the nostrils with the wine's gorgeously spicy hints of yeast, apple rind and citrus fruit compote. Tangerine, allspice, vanilla and slate stone can be found in the flavor, which is coated with a layer of wonderfully fresh tingling acidity adds harmony to this beauty. üüü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese** 2003
Utterly intense, which appears to be weightless on the palate, yet intoxicatingly powerful in flavor, this is a brilliant wine sings of elegance and balance. The aroma hints of sun-ripened grapes being warmed by sun-drenched bedrock, while the rich exotic richness of the wine coats the palate with tantalizing, mouth-filling flavor. üüü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese “Schmitt” 2003
What's all the fuss about here and what the heck is Schmitt? Simple. This is a small parcel and best section of the Schlossberg, normally reaching the highest Oeschle levels in that vineyard. As my friend, Johannes Selbach, so aptly described the Schmitt, “It's like taking the cream out of the milk.” The fruit was harvested on 19 November, with Oeschle levels at 112°, ripe enough to be classified as a Beerenauslese. The final result is a wine of incredible depth of character with supreme balance and elegance with absolutely no trace of ponderous weight or clumsiness. This gem slides across the palate with laser beam precision that it burns the taste buds. The rich botrytis adds to the complexity of flavor, enhancing the overall majesty of the wine. With its searing acidity, the youthful beauty will captivate the hearts of its tasters for decades to come. üüü
Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein 2003
Breathtaking beauty! Like a gorgeous woman, you just can't get enough, wanting to go back for just one more glance. Just one more. Superb, perfect in every way with its mesmerizing beauty of flavor, tantalizing the taster for another tiny little sip. One sip of this immortal wine is not enough. Just one more. üüü+/üüüü
Dürkheimer Abtsfronhof Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken 2003
The Fitz-Ritter wine estate is located just outside the spa town of Bad Dürkheim, which is nestled among the low, rolling hills which flank the Palatinate forest in the Pfalz wine region. This prestigious estate is run today by Konrad Fitz and his American wife, Alice. Mr. Fritz represents the 8th generation oversee the operations of the winery which was founded over two centuries ago.
As a member of the VDP, the oldest association of leading wine estates in Germany, Fitz-Ritter maintains the highest standards of quality control throughout its operation. The winery adheres to the principal guidelines of the VDP, therefore yield limitation and natural cultivation of the vines is of paramount importance. The final result is fuller-bodied wines with purity and excellent depth of flavor.
The Dürkheimer Abtsfronhof Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken from the 2003 vintage is a shining star amongst the galaxy of other superb wines from this outstanding vintage. Wonderfully scented, this beauty smells of wood smoke and pulverized chalk, burning the nostrils with its beautifully pungent aroma. This full-flavored, dry wine is filled with loads of enticing flavors, hinting of licorice, honeydew melon and a dash of ripe peach. The acidity is brisk and lively, pushing the wine's flavors across the palate like a knife through butter. Extremely intense and invigorating, this is a real beauty. üü+
Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2002
The historic Dr. Fischer wine estate, located in the picturesque Saar valley, sits at the foot of the world famous Ockfener Bockstein vineyard which lends its name to the winery, the Bocksteinhof. Dr. Fischer produces wines that are fully representative of the Saar, being highly aromatic, vigorously crisp and minerally and a supreme depth of concentration. Those from the wine estate's Ockfener Bockstein are characterized by racy and well-structured fruit.
The Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett from the 2002 vintage is just beginning to show its charm, having been closed in and unevolved for some time. The crystalline sheen to the wine affirms its youth, with its colorless hue as translucent as water. This dazzling beauty now exhibits the verve and intensity that is so unique to Saar wines. With a bouquet of pulverized slate and dried hay, it has an alluring flavor of mineral, lemon and lime zest with hints of ripe pear. It is a charming wine which is utterly inviting, just dancing across the palate with its brilliantly crisp finish. üüü
Riesling Kabinett trocken 2002
Never heard of this wine estate? Well you will now. This is a superlative producer from the quaint, picturesque village of Forst located in the Pfalz wine region, which happens to be making some of Germany's most thrilling dry wines. The wine estate is located in the Mittelhaardt district of the Pfalz, commonly referred to as the crown jewel of the entire region, with the villages of Forst, Deidesheim and Wachenheim being three of the best wine producing villages of the Mittelhaardt. It is here where Mosbacher's vineyards are located. Mosbacher produces wines of distinct, harmonious breed both in the fruity and dry styles, but I wish to mention the estate's drier wines because of their sheer excellence of character.
The Mittelhaardt, being one of the warmest regions in Germany, receives intense heat from the sun's rays during the summer months, allowing the Riesling grapes to ripen fully without any dilution of vigorous acidity. The final result is a wine of rich viscosity, full, mouth-watering flavor, and balanced by refined acidity.
Mosbacher's Riesling Kabinett trocken from the 2002 vintage is a superb example of Germany's effort to make Riesling in the drier style. The wine displays more weight and viscosity than one normally finds in German Riesling, as one looks at the legs of the wine gliding slowly down the side of the wine glass. The dry flavor offers hints ripe of pear and mineral notes, touched off by a wisp of lime zest. Powerful and intense, yet refined and elegant, this wine speaks of master craftsmanship in the truest sense of the word. For the fan of dry Riesling, don't miss this beauty. üü+
Noble House Riesling 2002
Made predominantly from grapes that come from Pauly-Bergweiler's own vineyards, this wine is on the dry side with wonderfully intense and bright flavors and plenty of zip in the finish. Charming. üü
Noble House Riesling 2003
Nice yeasty nose with hints of crushed apple, this dry wine has loads of rich flavor, offering a touch of spiced apple and lime juice, aligned with lovely, ripe acidity. üü
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2002
Nice integration of vanilla, apple and slate both in the nose and flavor of this light, delicate wine, making it so pleasurable that one glass is not enough. The colorless wine just slides across the palate with weightless grace. üü
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2003
A very attractive young wine with a smell of mineral and malted wheat notes, it has slightly more weight than the 2002. This beauty generates a scintillating slatey, mineral flavor derived from soil in which the grapes grow. Nice grip in the back adds to the complexity of this well made wine. üü+
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2002
This beauty really captures the essence "terroir", the flavor in a wine which is derived from the uniquely specific soil content and microclimate of an individual vineyard. In this case we are referring to the great Graacher Himmelreich, a steep site whose deep soils are awash in weathered gray slate stones. It is this slate-infused soil that gives a wonderful minerally backbone to this beautiful wine, filling it with aromas and flavors of sun-warmed, wet stones. Hints of lemon and green herbs broaden the nose of the wine, while the flavors are accentuated by hints of lime, apple and lemon zest. The bracing acidity adds to the complexity, allowing this lovely wine to develop nicely for many years to come. üüü
Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese 2002
This is a monopole vineyard, meaning that Pauly-Bergweiler is its sole owner. It is a great site, nestling just to the east of the Bernkastel's greatest vineyard, the Doctor. The Alte Badstube am Doctorberg, a 4.6 acre vineyard, is appropriately situated on the great hill of Bernkastel, with its southerly exposure, and is covered with Riesling vines that are well over 35 years old. This provides a wine of full and complex flavors with exceptional aging potential.
The 2002 vintage of the Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese shines as brightly as the North Star, with its incandescent brilliance of flavor. Hints of tangerine and pulverized slate are found in the nose, while the exhilarating flavors offer a panorama of citrus notes and vanilla. üü+
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese 2003
Full throttle style for a Spätlese, this wine appears to be a declassified Auslese with its ripe, exotic flavors, hinting of banana and pear. The wine could use a dash more acidity to really push the flavors forward, making for a more exciting wine. ü+
Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese 2003
Wow! This wine has such a beautiful nose, you can't stop smelling it. Simply outstanding. The flavor? Well, it's just as dynamic the wine's bouquet, with its slate, peach and orange hints, all wrapped up in an explosive burst of tangy acidity. üüü
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2002
A liquid reduction of slate shavings and spiced apple are enhanced by the wine's other intoxicating essences of vanilla, peach and tangerine make for one dazzling wine. Not a wisp of heaviness can be found in this gem, just wonderfully sleek and refined character. üüü
Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese 2002
A tremendous wine here, with a mesmerizing nose of gun smoke and apricot, the taste of this beauty offers a spectacle of papaya, mango and other tropical fruits. Seamless in its character, with no trace of heaviness, this is an acrobat of a wine, just dancing on a tightrope. üüü+
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2003
This is a fabulous wine with a deep banana, Juicy Fruit Gum nose that exhilarates the senses. The wine's concentration of flavors hinting of crushed rock, pear and melon flatter the palate with such invigorating force that it dazzles the taste buds. üüü
Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese 2003
Stupendous concentration both on the nose and in the flavor, without a trace of weight. There are absolutely no hints of botrytis in the nose, just the smell of sun-ripened raisins covered in vanilla custard. Powerful and concentrated in flavor, this wine displays supreme majesty in character with an intense and immortal length of flavor. Crafted with flamboyant levels of ripe acidity this multi-dimensional wine just startles the palate with its lingering finish. Great. üüü+
Estate Riesling, Schloss Schönborn 2002 - Rheingau
Yummy wine here, with loads of style and sophistication. This "little" wine from one of the Rheingau's best wine estates today is soooo much better than many other producers' wines at higher quality levels AND at higher prices. With a charmingly delicious, dry flavor and wonderfully bright, crispy finish, this is total winner. üü+
Ungsteiner Bettelhaus Riesling Kabinett, Darting 2002 - Pfalz
Loads of ripe character both in the bouquet and flavor of this wine, indicative of the 2002 vintage in the Pfalz, with a plethora of sunny days and warm temperatures. Most assuredly this a wine which has been declassified, providing sweet juicy fruit notes in the aroma and a full, rich and mouth-coating wine filled with flavors of sun-ripe oranges and vanilla custard. ü
Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Spätlese, J.&H.A. Strub 2002 - Rheinhessen
Walter Strub does it again! We have another winner. What is so appealing about the wine is the overall intensity of character, displaying hints of ripeness aligned with a forceful element of minerality. The wet-stone, smoky notes can be found both in the nose and the flavor of this gem, intensified by the wine's dynamic wisp of invigorating acidity. For the fans who like Mosel-like mineral expression turned up a notch with a dollop of more brute power, this wine is for you. üüü
Groskarlbacher Osterberg Riesling Spätlese, Lingenfelder 2002 -
Pfalz
The Lingenfelder wine estate is located in the small community of Grosskarlbach in the in the north east of the sunny Pfalz, the warmest and driest region of Germany. The Pfalz wine region lies in the foothills east of the Haardt Mountains which offer protection from prevailing westerly weather and create the sunny conditions ideal for growing grapes. This southwestern region of Germany, adjacent to France, enjoys 1800 hours of sunshine a year. With an almost Mediterranean climate it is no surprise that crops other than grapes also flourish including almonds, peaches, apricots, cherries, sweet chestnuts, walnuts, figs, tobacco and many vegetables including asparagus and chicory.
The wine estate currently rests in the hands of Rainer Karl Lingenfelder who took the reins from his father in 1990. Rainer represents the13th generation of Lingenfelders as winegrowers in the Pflaz, dating back to 1520.
Rainer's philosophy in winemaking remains steadfast in family tradition, and in summary he states, "We believe that great wines are created in the vineyard. This is the only way to create great wine. All our vineyard practices aim to create perfect fruit at harvest. We then practice gentle winemaking in the cellar, we intervene as little as possible and let nature take its course. To preserve the maximum complexity and fullness of flavour, we avoid clarifying or stabilizing agents. Our aim is to bottle the Pfalz sunshine and to create wines of distinction that reward repeated tasting, and, we hope, that contribute to your sense of well being."
The Groskarlbacher Osterberg Riesling Spätlese 2002 is a perfect example of the Lingenfelder style, with its pure and refined character. It is a wine whose aroma explodes out of the glass with an enticing note of warmed tropical fruit, while the deliciously crisp flavors dazzle the palate with a rich succulence, hinting of pineapples, melons and sweet, juicy peaches. This is a beauty to enjoy now, but will age well for several more years, adding to the wine's brilliant complexity. üü+
Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Auslese, Georg Albrecht Schneider 2002 -Rheinhessen
Albrecht Schneider's maxim has always been absolute devotion to his vineyards and wines, while marketing was considered less important. The estate has been owned by the Schneider family for 7 generations, and at vintage time, three generations are at work. 15 hectares in Nierstein belong to the estate, over 40% of which are Riesling. Red sandstone soils are predominant in the best sites which yield rich and flavorful wines. The old underground cellars with wooden casks provide ideal conditions for the traditional production methods. 1995 marked a step forward for the estate, more spacious underground cellars and warehousing facilities having been purchased in Nierstein.
The 2002 vintage at Schneider was as compelling as that of 2001, with scintillating wines, blasting with delicious mouth-filling flavors and coated with superb crisp acidity. The Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Auslese is aptly representative of the Schneider style with its magnificently crafty elegance. enveloping the palate with a smorgasbord of ripe fruit flavors with hints of pear, pineapple, peach and plum. The balance of the wine is well accentuated by the sweet, juicy acidity which allows the flavors to linger on the palate for minutes. One of the best values of 2002 Auslese that you are likely to find. üü
Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese, Schloss Schönborn 2001 -Rheingau
This estate produced wines of outstanding quality in 2001, with the Rüdes-heimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese being at the absolute pinnacle of quality. One whiff of this beauty and you know you're in for something special. A burst of tropical fruit essences explode from the glass as one takes a sniff, literarally dazzling the nasal passages with the wine's alluring bouquet. The flavor elevates the sensory enjoyment of this wine, filling the palate with notes of passion fruit, tangerine, mango and papaya. Sublime! üüü
Würzburger Absleite Silvaner trocken, Bürgerspital zum Hl. Geist 2002 - Franken
From this great Franken estate comes this dry wine filled with personality. Made from the Silvaner grape, the wine's nose is simple and unsophisticated, yet offers warmth and richness in its aroma. The wine's nice earthy flavors are enhanced by hints of celery all of which are broadened out by a dash of spice notes. Not extremely complex, but a charming little wine nonetheless. ü
Estate Riesling Classic, Dr. Fischer 2002 - M-S-R
A wonderful expression of Saar Riesling from the 2002 vintage, this wine delights the palate with its dry mineral expression of flavor, finishing off with a tinge of invigorating acidity. Delightful balance and brimming with character, this lovely wine is a pleasure to drink. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett, Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Thanisch 2002 - M-S-R
Wonderfully refreshing with hints of lemon/lime and slate in the nose and ripe juicy fruit flavor, this wine offers such sweet sensation. This wine is perfect now, but will blossom magnificently with another year or two of aging. üü
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett, Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Thanisch 2002 - M-S-R
The vineyards of the Bernkastel rise majestically behind this fairytale village which sits beside the ambling Mosel River. It is a pretty scene, with half-timbered buildings in various hues of color so quaintly dotting the cobblestone streets, with the steep, slate-covered vineyards providing a thrilling background for this medieval setting. It is fitting that the wines from this romantic village offer the whimsical charm, beauty and shear grace that define Mosel Riesling at its best. Bernkastel wines are special.
Sofia Thanisch-Spier, the delightful and gracious owner of the historic Dr. Thanisch wine estate, has crafted a beauty in the 2002 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett, radiating the elegance and refinement so often found in the wines from this fabled village. The slate soil of the great Doctor vineyard has worked its magic here, with a whiff of sun-baked wet stones and lemon rind in the bouquet. It is hard to fathom that this wine which is as colorless as water can have such an enthralling bouquet, but leave it to the majesty of the Riesling grape to provide such thrilling aroma. One senses a sweet-sour sensation in the flavor of this beauty, with the ripeness of fruit balanced by the wispy, crispy acidity that tantalizes the palate. Such charm, such finesse, this lovely Riesling sings of purity, refinement and delicacy which the wines from this great wine estate often reveal. üü+
Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett 2002
The pastoral Ruwer wine district is named after the tiny river which cuts its trail through this charmingly quaint region, eventually flowing into the more majestic Mosel River near the city of Trier. This is a cool is part of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wine district, and its grapes need full sun and warmth to provide proper ripeness. When conditions are favorable, the wines of the Ruwer offer some of the most brilliant, seamless flavors that the Riesling grape can offer. The 2002 vintage was especially kind to the producers in the Ruwer valley, and those from Weingut Karlsmühle are ravishing beauties, perhaps the finest collection of wines ever made from this estate.
The Kaseler Nies'chen is a great site, and the wines from this vineyard normally offer sleek, minerally essences with bracing acidity. Karlsmühle's Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett 2002 is sublime. It provides the usual characteristics found from this exceedingly steep site, but accentuates the complexity and composition because of the adept craftsmanship of Peter Geiben, the wine estate's talented winemaker. In this beauty we see more spice and mineral in the bouquet than usual, with flavors of pear, apple and sun-washed stones. Such wonderful balance this wine has, it is simply a joy to drink. üüü
Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2002
In the words of Terry Theise, the charmingly witty and celebrated German wine importer, he says of the Dönnhoff wines, "In this humble taster's opinion, these are the greatest Rieslings on earth. No other wine, anywhere, exceeds clarity, polish, complexity and sheer beauty of flavor of this grower's finest wines." No one could summarize the Dönnhoff wines any better.
The 2002 vintage wines from this highly esteemed producer are spell-binding, brilliant, magnificent, with the Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett demonstrating the magical touch of the Dönnhoff style with its grace, elegance and complexity. One whiff of the wine, and your senses catapult into orbit. The wine's gorgeous bouquet tingles the nose with hints of ripe honeydew and cantaloupe melons. The scintillating flavors of peach, honeysuckle, Candy Corn and pulverized stone glide so gracefully over the palate, like swan drifting peacefully on a windless lake. The juicy, mouth-filling flavor is enhanced by its sleek and brisk acidity, creating a wine of magnificent elegance and superb balance. This is a brilliant achievement from an extraordinary artisan of the wine world. üü+
Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Kabinett trocken 2002
Still showing hints of yeast in the nose and flavor, this young dry wine is of excellent structure, displaying elements of mineral and lime that are encapsulated by a touch of crisp invigorating acidity. This is a wine of piquant character. üü
Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese trocken 2002
Brilliant wine here, with its apple, yeasty character, this charming Spätlese has more power and richness than the Kabinett trocken, but stills displays the same wonderful mineral expression. The underlying core of brisk acidity adds to the complexity of this beauty. üü+
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken 2002
Slightly fuller and riper than the Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese trocken, this gorgeous wine has a wonderfully deep and penetrating flavor, showing more of an exotic fruit note in the flavor, yet still keeping the balance in perfect harmony. Simple delicious. üüü
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken 2002
Simply gorgeous, with hints of yeast and apple rind in the aroma, the wine's flavors offer hints of lemon, Red Delicious apple and crushed stone. Wow what a beauty. üüü
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese 2002
Similar to the Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken 2002, but with a more exotic ripe fruit note, this wine provides hints of peach, lime and strawberry are added to the apple-mineral flavor which is warmingly stimulated by the rapier-like acidity. This wine simply oozes seductive flavor and sophistication. üüü+
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese 2002
Every once in a while, one stumbles upon something or someone so wonderfully special that it really defies description. You feel it in your heart, you replay it your brain, just to relive the experience over and over again. And so it is with Werner and Frank Schönleber, father and son, whom I recently visited at their wine estate, Emrich-Schönleber, located in the village of Monzingen in the Nahe wine district, that I have found within me this special feeling. Werner and Frank are uncommon people, kind and genuine with the gift of bringing you into their hearts. Pure and natural these people are, they speak to you with the passion of life in their souls.
Just like the Schönlebers, the wines from the estate have personalities so genuine, so pure, so special. They sing of unpretentious elegance which captures my heart by the quiet perfection of their style. The wines will captivate you too. So, if you can find them, do not miss the opportunity of buying some of Werner's and Frank's wines as they are some of the finest examples of winemaking in Germany today.
This Auslese is breathtakingly beautiful! Here is the epitome of the great Emrich-Schönleber style: majesty, grace, power and the utmost in elegance. A superb wine, it simply smothers you with unfathomable depth of flavor and concentration which coats the mouth with the wine's enticingly exotic, ripe fruit flavors and intense juicy acidity. This monumental gem will shine forever bright, displaying a brilliance in flavor that few wines ever achieve. A perfect score, for this wine is truly a masterpiece. üüüü
Scharzhofberg Kabinett 2002
The Saar Valley excelled in the 2002 vintage. Everything that this cool region needs to produce wines of high quality occurred in 2002, allowing the Riesling grapes to ripen fully, bursting with rich ripe flavors and vigorous acidity.
Eberhard von Kunow, the charmingly energetic and witty owner of Weingut von Hövel, fashioned his magic on this beautiful Kabinett from the great Scharzhoberg vineyard. In appearance, the wine displays the transparency of water - crystal clear and colorless. The aroma offers hints of crushed mineral and lemonade, while the wispy flavors of lemon zest and apple rind intriguingly capture the palate. Succulent ripe acidity adds to the complexity of this gorgeous wine. üü+
Scharzhofberg Spätlese 2002
Rich and spicy notes, with scintillating hints of peach, ginger and cinnamon, this lovely Saar wine is so enticing and delicious. Mouthwateringly flavorful, it snaps with crisp acidity in is long finish. üüü
Scharzhofberg Auslese 1999
A wonderful nose to this wine, with hints of cream and vanilla, it begs for you to take a quick sip. With flavors of vanilla custard and nutmeg, this sleek refined wine finishes with a beautifully tangy edge. üü
Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Auslese 1988
This fourteen year old wine shows remarkable brilliance in color, with its lemon-yellow luster. Still brimming in youthful flavor, it speaks of essences of vanilla, pear and cinnamon, singing of whispy crisp acidity in the background. üü+
Von Schleinitz Slatestone Riesling "Dry" 2001 - M-S-R
The von Schleinitz wine estate is recognized as one of the top estates in the Mosel region. The high quality of the estate's wines is continuously confirmed by awards and medals received in regional and national as well as international competitions. Low yields and the use of cultivated yeasts result in well crafted wines which are raised in stainless steel in a modern facility. One can taste the result of professional care and vast experience in these full, nicely balanced Riesling wines with minerally components in the bouquet and vibrant, but fine acidity in the body.
The Slatestone Riesling "Dry" comes from the estate's steeply terraced slate-filled vineyards along the Mosel River, providing perfect conditions to ripen the grapes to full intensity. Von Schleinitz's beautiful Mosel wine represents all the glories of the fabled 2001 vintage. Lemon zest and Granny Smith apple in the aroma, with undertones of warmed slate, this delicious wine begs you to have one more sniff. With flavors of ripe pear, apple rind and crushed minerals, this gorgeous wine is intensified by its sleek acidity, allowing for a superb, long lasting finish. For fans of dry Riesling, this wine is for you. üü+
von Hövel Scharzhofberg Auslese 2001-M-S-R-
The von Hövel wine estate owns about 27.5 acres of vineyards in the Saar Valley, with a production of approximately 5,000 cases. All vineyards are planted to 100% Riesling. The estate's holdings include part of the great Scharzhofberg, one of Germany's most noble vineyards. The steep, slatey Scharzhofberg produces wines of unfathomable raciness and elegance.
Von Hövel's Scharzhofberg Auslese from the 2001 vintage is a stellar wine, offering significant complexity with its subtle nuances of crushed mineral and tropical fruit notes both in bouquet and flavor. There is no heaviness or cloying sweetness, rather power and concentration wrapped up in a sleek, refined body. The bright and crisp acidity just adds to the majesty of this beautiful wine. üüü
J.&H.A. Strub Niersteiner Orbel Riesling Kabinett 2001-Rheinhessen-
The vineyards of Nierstein possess some of the greatest attributes found in the entire Rheinhessen wine district. In fact, so famous is the village that it has the distinction of having a special title given to the vineyards that lie within, the great "Roter Hang" or Red Slope. This is due to the soil's composition of weathered stony red slate referred to as "Rotliegende".
The southeast facing Orbel vineyard sits in a side valley off the Rhine River, just to the west of the village of Nierstein. With its shallow, stony soil and perpendicularly steep pitch, the wines from the Orbel tend to be racier and crisper than those from neighboring vineyards. In poor years, the Orbel's wines can be austere and acidic, in great vintages, however, the wines shine as brightly as the summer sun.
Here is another winner from Walter Strub's stable of charming 2001 vintage wines. This beauty has a wonderful bouquet with hints of smoked tangerine and orange rind. Sleek for a Rheinhessen wine, it is light to medium-bodied and sings in flavor with its gorgeous lime sour ball candy, mineral and peach notes. Bracing acidity adds to the complexity of this captivating wine, enticing you to have another sip. Wow, this is so good! üüü
QbA
Estate Riesling QbA 2001, Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch Erben - M-S-R
Super value wine from the great 2001 vintage. This little charmer has a wonderful scent of spiced apples and smoked minerals, with off-dry flavors that are smothered by the wine's ripe acidity. The Thanisch estate hit the mark right on with this beauty. üü
KABINETT
Burrweiler Schlossgarten Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken 2001, Messmer - Pfalz
Excellent balance in this off-dry wine from the Pfalz, with a lively bouquet hinting of citrus and dash of chalk, and a juicy, succulent flavor which is so beautifully balanced by an effervescent, zippy and crisp finish. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2001, Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch Erben - M-S-R
Bright and brisk wine this wine is with hints of crushed mineral and apple rind. This sleek beauty suggests flavors of lime, slate with an underpinning of sun-ripened peach. Wonderfully refreshing and simply delicious. üü+
Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett 2001, Weingart - Mittelrhein
From the Mittelrhein, often an underappreciated wine region, comes one of the most beautiful renditions of Kabinett wines of the 2001 vintage. This beauty has it all. Almost Mosel-like in bouquet and taste, this gem displays such purity and sleek intensity that it dashes across the palate as if weightless. Purest definition of terroir with its slatey, stony taste, this gorgeous Kabinett has such a profound level of crisp acidity that the flavors seem to last forever on the palate. üüü
Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett 2001, Koehler-Ruprecht - Pfalz
Attractive wine at best here, from Koehler-Ruprecht, which seems to be typical of the Pfalz style with its broad and rich flavor. A little short on the finish, due to the lack of bright acidity, this wine disappears rather quickly on the back palate. ü
SPÄTLESE
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese 2001 Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch Erben - M-S-R
A most exhilarating bouquet in this wine, offering hints of sun-warmed slate and peach with a superb essence of vanilla, tangerine and baked apple in flavor. With its scintillating level of ripe acidity this wine has incredible balance and extreme complexity. Although too young to fully appreciate the dynamics of this outstanding wine, with time it will fully blossom into the greatness that one would expect from this superb vineyard. Patience will be the great reward. üüü
Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Spätlese 2001 Wittmann - Rheinhessen
A beauty from the Rheinhessen, offering a smorgasbord of tropical fruit aromas and taste sensations, this wine has the ripeness and viscosity of a declassified Auslese. Peach, tangerine, apricot describe the fruit essences found in the nose and flavor of this Spätlese, while the ripe acidity adds to the complexity of this delicious wine. üü+
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1999
If I were to choose any wine to be stranded with on a desert island, I know what I would pick. My "island" wine would be a Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling from Joh. Jos. Prüm.
The wines from this legendary estate are so profound, that it is difficult to describe their intoxicating beauty and elegance. Dr. Manfred Prüm, the delightful and charismatic owner, is passionate about his style of winemaking. He allows the wines to be made as naturally as possible, developing slowly in the cellar and giving them wonderful aging potential. This enables the wines to work their magic over time, changing from adolescent awkwardness into a graceful dance of floral scents and ripe fruit flavors. Such are the wines from this great estate, unfathomable depth, supreme elegance, magnificent beauty.
This Auslese from the great Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard displays signs in incredible youth. The color is almost transparent, with a slight tint of lemon yellow. Swirling the wine in a glass shows characteristics of lightness and delicacy, with no trace of cloying richness and viscosity. The taste of this remarkable wine offers a panorama of sweet citrus fruits with a dash of peach and apricot, all of which is surrounded by a vivid, crispy zip of mineral acidity. This is a wine of concentration and superb intensity, yet with an immeasurable amount of exquisite delicacy. This is an "island" wine for sure. üüü+
Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Spätlese 2000
Members of the Strub family have been winemakers in Germany's Rheinhessen region since 1710. When the charming Walter Strub assumed proprietorship of the estate in 1985, he made the 11th generation of his family to produce fine Riesling wines of international repute from their vineyards around Nierstein. He and his wife Margit run the winery as a team.
The Hipping Vineyard of Nierstein has a particularly positive micro-climate. The sun exposure is mainly east and south east, providing warmth early in the morning, while the soil retains the heat well into the late afternoon and evening hours. At the same time this exposure protects the vineyard from the frequent west winds. Because of the high mineral content of the soil, the wines coming from this superb vineyard site provides ripe grapes resulting in full bodied, round wines.
Strub's Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Spätlese 2000 is an excellent wine with power and seductive intensity of flavor. The wine displays a rich, luminescent color, showing its youth and ripe viscosity, while the bouquet of smoked herb and red fruits is enhanced by a whiff sweet peach. This juicy Spätlese tastes of ripe lime, peach and mineral, which is accentuated by the wine's invigoratingly crisp acidity. Walter Strub really hit the mark with this charmingly delicious wine. üüü
Dürkheimer Spielberg Scheurebe Spätlese 2001
This is a fine estate from the Pfalz where winemaking can be traced within the family back to 1780. Under the excellent direction of Helmut Darting, winemaker and co-owner, the estate's wines represent some of the finest that the Pfalz has to offer, displaying intense varietal character combined with power and succulent richness. The superb Dürkheimer Spielberg Scheurebe Spätlese illustrates the exceptional quality that this wonderful estate in capable of producing.
The Dürkheimer Spielberg is a vineyard that is composed primarily of limestone which is highly suited to Scheurebe. The sun's heat reflects off the rocky soil, allowing the grape to ripen fully which is essential to its overall quality. Unripe, underdeveloped Scheurebe is an unpleasant experience!
In 2001 conditions were perfect for Scheurebe, and Darting has captured a wine of considerable finesse and superb intensity. One whiff of the wine and one's senses are captivated by its floral and citrus essence. There is a smorgasbord of flavors, offering gooseberry, ripe grapefruit and orange rind that tingles the palate with its clear, crisp acidity in the finish. This is such a pleasure to drink, and for those of you who have never enjoyed a wine made from Scheurebe or if you're a lover of the grape, this wine is for you. üü+
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese 2001
The Monzinger Halenberg vineyard is located in the Upper Nahe, not an area necessarily known for the region's best wines. The fame rests further east, where the great vineyards of Schlossböckelheim, Niederhausen and Traisen sit majestically along the Nahe River. Times have changed though, and all for the better. For the tiny, yet trend-setting Emrich-Schönleber wine estate is making some of the most scintillating and complex wines in all of Germany, let alone the Nahe wine district. Werner Schönleber is a soft spoken gentleman who lets his fabulous wines do the talking.
Of all the wines tasted recently, there was no question that Emrich-Schönleber was going to be the wine of the month selection for October. The three wines tasted from this estate were so compelling that the choice was obvious. But which one of the three tasted really stood out? The Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken was utterly delicious and the Spätlese from the same vineyard was equally as compelling. The Auslese was the winner. It edged out the other two wines by a hair, as it showed the most finesse.
The Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese defies description. This is truly an otherwordly wine, with the balance, grace and complexity that only a true artist can capture. Werner Schönleber has been able to capture all that is great from this vineyard, displaying how it's unique slate soil can add so much flavor and complexity given the right conditions. The color of the wine shows hints of light straw, while the bouquet offers sun-ripened grapes, freshly cut flowers and hints of smoked minerals. There is a generous flavor hinting of botrytis, pineapple, lemon drop candy and a dash of black currant that is harmoniously balanced by the sleek and intense acidity in the finish. This is a truly great Auslese. üüü+
Estate Riesling 2001
The fruit of this wine comes from the Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg vineyard which is primarily composed of volcanic soil. This adds a wonderful spicy, smoky element to the flavor of this little beauty. This is a charming and well-balanced wine with a wonderfully crisp finish. üü
Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2001
Delicate for a Dönnhoff wine, though this is no lightweight. It is of Mosel sleekness and refinement, offering soaring minerality of flavor. ü+
Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese 2001
This is a beautifully crafted wine. Sweet, juicy notes of red fruits in the bouquet with a dashing flair of crisp Red Delicious apple spiced with cinnamon in the taste. The bright and crisp acidity pushes the flavors across the palate, allowing for a delightfully long-lasting finish. üü+
Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese 2001
Firm and powerful with a more exotic note in the aroma than the Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese, this wine scintillates the palate with its smoked mineral essence that is enhanced by its ripe, juicy acidity. Looking for a wine of intense complexity with mouth-searing acidity? Look no further. üüü
Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2001
Wow, even broader and juicier than the Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese, this beauty has real mouth-filling flavor. The ripe fruit notes in the wine offer hints of honey and tropical fruit in the bouquet, while the lush flavor has elements of peach, tangerine and vanilla. Yum, yum. üüü
Niederhäuser Hermannshöle Riesling Spätlese 2001
Quite simply, this is one of the greatest wines that I have tasted from the 2001 vintage. A wine of extraordinary proportion, a wine of supreme balance, this is Riesling at it finest. The bouquet captivates the senses by its whiff of smoked black cherry, if you can imagine, together with citrus hints. The succulent, powerful flavor displays characteristics of a fruit compote smothered with exotic spices, providing an invigoratingly crisp and long-lasting finish. Outrageous. üüü+
Riesling Kabinett 2001
Wow! This wine has a brilliant sleek intensity both in nose and flavor, with a wonderful dash of crisp apple-mineral hints balanced by scintillating acidity. Absolutely delicious. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2001
Smoked mineral and lemon rind in the nose, with a beautifully crisp and zippy finish, this wine has a wonderfully seductive quality. Sleek and slender in build, this beauty glides gracefully across the palate. üü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 2001
I happen to LOVE this vineyard. The Selbach-Oster wines from the Zeltinger Schlossberg always seem to display an ethereal whiff of minerality and brilliance that sear across the palate like an eagle soaring gracefully through the sky. Weightless and ethereal, totally captivating. Here is a wine of polished mineral and smoked, wet stone hints that are enwrapped by a coating of citrus fruit to give the flavor a lift of perfect balance. üü+
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 2001
Oh my, another wine from the Schlossberg. Oh boy! The same as the Kabinett above, but with more intoxicating vigor and succulence. Still all mineral and citrus, but with more mass and structure. Simply superb. üüü
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2001
Different from the Schlossberg, although a neighboring vineyard, here we see more of the earthy notes that the Sonnenuhr can display, with more power and succulence, yet maintaining a monumental level of bracing acidity and supreme balance. The superb structure in this wine shows its capability of aging for decades. üüü
Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese* 2001
Here is the first wine with evidence of fine botrytis. Wonderfully fresh and raisinous without any heaviness, this wine displays hints of a compote consisting of sultana raisins and cream with a dash of brown sugar. Young but yummy. üü+
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2001
Oh sooo pretty! More dynamic, more texture than the Himmelreich Auslese*, yet still holds a beautiful balance of elegance and breed. There is a wonderful interplay of delicacy and power which creates a delightful synergy of immeasurable balance. üüü
Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Beerenauslese 2001
Unfathomable depth, with its hauntingly beautiful flavors of vanilla, caramel and sun-ripened grapes. Bracing acidity pushes these flavors around and through the palate, allowing the taste of this mesmerizing wine to linger for minutes. This is truly a masterpiece. üüü+
Silvaner trocken 2001, Bürgerspital zum HL Geist - Franken
This wine displays a most attractive fruity nose, with hints of daffodil and wet stone. Dry and robust in character, this lovely Franken wine has a wonderful, rich, grapey flavor with a solid backbone of crisp acidity. ü+
Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett 2001, Domdechant Werner - Rheingau
This historic Rheingau estate was founded in 1780, when the father of Dr. Franz Werner, the Domdechant (Dean) of the Cathedral of Mainz, purchased the property. Now in its 7th generation, the estate is under the direction of Dr. Franz Werner Michel. Today, Domdechant Werner is making some of the Rheingau's most distinguished wines, with power and majesty, yet refined and elegant.
The Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett from the 2001 vintage is a superb achievement from this estate, displaying all that is right when conditions are favorable in the Rheingau. It is a wine of extreme intensity, with a balance of charm and sophistication. Subtle hints of baked apple, weathered stone can be found in the delightful bouquet, while the high-toned, spicy flavor offers wonderful fruity notes of tangerine, lime and strawberry, with a dash of invigorating crispiness in the finish. Drink this beauty now or enjoy it over the next several years. üü+
Slatestone Riesling "Dry" 2000, Freiherr von Schleinitz - M-S-R
The Slatestone Riesling "Dry" comes from the estate's steeply terraced vineyards, providing perfect conditions to ripen the grapes to full intensity. The bouquet displays hints of sun-warmed pears and Granny Smith apples, with a crisp and dry flavor of pear, mineral and vanilla. Ripe acidity in the finish adds to the complexity of this delightfully refreshing and juicy wine. üü+
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2001
Pretty wine, here, with hints of apple and lemon/lime flavors. This little beauty has a wonderfully refreshing finish. ü+
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2001
Slightly more powerful and succulent than the Erdener Treppchen Kabinett, with a hint of warmed ginger and spice. Superb in the finish, with an intense crispiness. üü+
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese 2001
This is a wine that epitomizes the Christoffel style. It is a wine of balance, grace and harmony. With its floral bouquet and sleek flavors of orange peel and crushed mineral, the wine's refinement is harmonized by the interplay of the taste and dynamic acidity. üü+
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2001
Simply gorgeous. Typical of the wines that come from the Würzgarten vineyard, it has an immense spicy quality, both in bouquet and in taste. Essences of yeast, mineral and ripe grapes can be found in the nose, while the flavor offers hints of spiced honeydew melon and tangerine. Beautiful. üüü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 2001
Almost whimsical in style, with its fantastic, slender and sleek elegance, this is a wine that captures the imagination with its sheer beauty and grace rather than brute force and vigor. Just a whiff of vanilla and lemon peel can be found both in the aroma and the flavor of the wine. With a stroke of zippy, crisp acidity in the finish, the wine dances across the palate with elegance and polish. üüü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese* 2001
Ever so slightly more complex than the Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese mentioned above. A higher level of ripeness in the grapes provides a wine of more richness and succulence in flavor, and it is with this wine that one can appreciate the slight elevation in quality. Masterful in every way, it is a wine of immense complexity and sophistication. üüü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese** 2001
Simply one of the greatest wines that I have ever tasted from this estate. Perfect in almost every way, with an intensity and refinement that catapults this wine into another class, perhaps another world! More powerful and exotic than the Auslese*, yet keeping the ballerina-like grace and elegance, this masterpiece simply defies description. Every sip offers a smorgasbord of delicious flavors. Absolutely superb. üüü+
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2000, Selbach-Oster - M-S-R
A great winery stands out from the rest its peers when it is capable of producing wines that are of superior quality even when conditions are not very favorable. Whether it is in the vineyards or the artistic talent in the wine cellar, the best producer manages to add more dimension and complexity when nature has been unkind. The 2000 vintage was a difficult one, leading to wines that were somewhat clumsy overall. However, the wines from the great MittelMosel producer, Selbach-Oster, illustrate how vineyard management and technical skill can produce wines of majestry and grace.
The Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2000 is a perfect example of this producer's incredible talent. This beautiful Spätlese has a superb nose of sun-drenched lemons and springtime flowers. Brisk flavors of apple and cinnamon are touched off by a strong essence of crushed rock that comes from the slate soil in the Sonnenuhr vineyard. The scintillating flavors slide over the palate with the flair and grace of an Olympic skater gliding across the ice - smooth, delicate and graceful, yet forceful and strong. This exotically perfumed wine is balanced by its crisp and vigorous acidity, adding to its stimulating complexity.
Grauburgunder Auslese trocken, Malscher Ölbaum 1999
- Barrique-
Wonderfully clean nose with hints of vanilla and orange pekoe tea. Viscous and rich, broad and powerful, this stunning wine captivates the palate with flavors of peach, vanilla kissed by a touch of oak. The succulent finish is very long. This delicious wine is very well balanced and has great appeal. üü+
Spätburgunder Auslese "R" trocken, Malscher Rotsteig 1999
- Barrique-
Here is an excellent Pinot Noir from this producer. Such a lovely nose this wine has, with its herbal, olive and cinnamon essence. Excellent balance of rich fruit and spicy elegance, with warm flavors of cardamom, cranberry and Tabasco Sauce, this Spätburgunder has super character. Generous in the finish with a charming and lingering aftertaste, this is a superb wine. üüü
Cabernet Sauvignon Spätlese, trocken, Malscher Rotsteig 1999
-Barrique-
Full, rich and ripe with a bouquet of blackberry and tobacco, touched off by a hint of vanilla. Medium to full-bodied, this wine has an accent of sweet fruit, with flavors of cedar, clove and bright, succulent blackberry. This wine finishes well with its juicy tannins. üü
Scharzhoferger Riesling Kabinett, von Kesselstatt 1993 - M-S-R
A wine from the 1993 vintage that tastes as though it was produced two years ago. A lovely, light gold color, showing only slight hints of its age, yet less of a golden hue than most one year old California Chardonnays. The bouquet displays hints of caramel, honey and vanilla, while the vigorously crisp taste is that of ginger, toffee, orange peel, lime with a hint of cream. All this with an enticingly zippy finish make for a superb nine year old wine. üü+
Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett 2000, Karlsmühle - M-S-R
Nestled comfortably in a serene, pastoral valley and along the minute Ruwer River sits this utterly charming winery, Weingut Karlsmühle. Under the superb direction of its owner, Peter Geiben, the wines from this estate are certainly some of the most profound produced from the Ruwer, if not all of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wine district. Classic in the
true sense of the word, the Karlsmühle wines are sleek and refined with tantalizing character and seductive acidity.
This is one of the most delicious and well-balanced Kabinett wines tasted from the 2000 vintage. There is a remarkable purity throughout, with a perfect balance of dynamic fruit and racy acidity. The wine offers lemon-lime hints in the bouquet, supported by a smoked mineral element. Brisk and enlivening in flavor with a dash of ginger, wet stone and malted corn, this lovely Kabinett finishes with a wonderful whiff of crisp acidity. Several years of bottle age will only add to the complexity of this superb wine. üüü
Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Kabinett 2000, J & H.A. Strub- Rheinhessen
This delightful winery has been producing wines in the Rheinhessen since the early 18th century. Under the excellent direction of Walter Strub, the family winery is making some of the Rheinhessen's most exciting wines today. The house style is very stylish in character, with an elegance and spiciness that one would expect from the highly-touted Rheinterrasse. The Strub wines capture your heart and soul with their charming manner.
The Pettenthal is one of the treasures from the village, Nierstein. This steeply sloped vineyard of approximately 80 acres, sits along the Rhine River, collecting intense heat from the sun's rays during the long, hot summer daylight hours. As a result, the wines display intense vigor and power with scintillating acidity.
The Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Kabinett displays a wonderful peachy, baked apple bouquet, with an overlay of crushed mineral. The elegant, yet powerful flavor offers hints of lime and lemon zest enhanced by the smoked mineral element leached out from the Pettenthal soil. The flavor is enhanced by crisp acidity, providing a wonderfully invigorating finish. üü+
Slatestone Riesling "Dry" 1999, Freiherr von Schleinitz - M-S-R
The wines of this excellent producer from the Lower Mosel, have a purity of flavor and refined richness, which are zippy and crisp, yet full and charming. The von Schleinitz wines always put a smile on my face.
This wine comes from the estate's steeply terraced vineyards which receive optimal sunlight throughout the day, allowing the grapes to fully ripen. The bouquet displays ripe fruit notes of sun-ripened limes and crushed minerals, with a succulent, dry flavor of pear, apple and lemon zest. Wonderfully refreshing with ripe acidity, this delightful wine has excellent balance and definition. üü
Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett 2000, Schloss Schönborn - Rheingau
The legendary estate, Schloss Schönborn, is making some of the best wines from the Rheingau today. Under the direction of Günther Thies, this producer continues to make wines of extreme balance and harmony, keeping the best attributes of the Rheingau firmly in place.
Schloss Schönborn's Erbacher Marcobrunn from the 2000 vintage is a stunning wine, offering sophistication, elegance and profound complexity. This is Riesling at its finest - scintillating bouquet, whimsical delicacy, forceful penetration of flavor and outstandingly refreshing in the finish. The bouquet displays notes of ginger, yeast, crushed mineral and coriander, while the sublime flavor offers a hint of sun-warmed peaches, chalk, and a dash of mango. With no shortage of crispy acidity, the finish is long and invigorating. This is a superb effort from a marvelous producer. üüü
Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Kabinett 2000, Weingut Dönnhoff - Nahe
The Dönnhoff wines continue to mesmerize the palate with a smorgasbord of whimsical taste sensations that these liquid treasures defy description. What can one say about this esteemed producer from the Nahe? Simply, that Helmut Dönnhoff is one of the greatest producers of Riesling on the planet.
The Norheimer Dellchen Kabinett exhibits extraordinary balance, harmony and intensity. A whiff of vanilla bean and orange blossom capture the bouquet, while the wine's captivating taste offers hints of peach, banana and orange. Delicate yet firm, everything is balanced perfectly by the ripe acidity. This wine is simply sublime. üüü
Estate Riesling QbA 2000
Delicious, with a wonderfully broad and rich flavor. This little gem packs a lot of finesse for a wine that is a mere QbA. One of the bargains of the vintage from this highly regarded producer from Ürzig. üü
Astor Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2000
This wine is named after one of the ancestors of the owner of Weingut Mönchoff.
A most attractive wine it is. With its spicy and apple essence in the bouquet, the wine offers a pleasurable taste of slate and apple rind that is harmoniously balanced by the zingy tang of sleek acidity. Well-balanced and very pleasing.üü+
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2000
With a dash vanilla bean in the nose combined with a gentle spiciness, adding to the complexity in the aroma, this wine packs a powerful punch with its bold and brash flavor. Exotic elements of ripe fruits add to the multidimensional character, giving the wine superb concentration. üü
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese 2000
Hints of sun-drenched daffodils explode from the glass, making this wine such a joy to smell. Crisp and invigorating in flavor with elements of smoldering wet stones and limes make for a wine of immense sophistication and purity that only the Riesling grape can capture. üüü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 2000
Another winner from this fabled vineyard. This is an excellent wine with its powerful stature and rich flavor. In English, the word Würzgarten means "spice garden", and this Auslese certainly lives up to the this translation. Loads of invigorating spices can be found both in the flavor and in the finish of this gorgeous wine. üüü
Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese 2000
Extremely viscous, almost syrupy in appearance, but ethereal in its delicacy and refinement. The essence of vanilla extract and malted wheat in the aroma give the impression of a wine that is youthful character. With its deliciously ripe, raisinous flavor that is topped off by a dash of vanilla bean, this mouthwatering wine is finished off by scorching acidity that elevates the wine to another level. This is a real beauty. üüü
Edition Dr.Pauly 2000
This intriguing white wine is made from the pressed juice of the Pinot Noir grape, a rarity along the Mosel River. It is an excellent little wine with a profile that reminds me of Pinot Blanc. Dry with a crisp, minerally backbone, it has a delightfully spicy finish. üü
Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese trocken 2000
Very Nice. Lemon zest and mineral with a dryish character, this makes for a fabulous wine with food. Wonderfully bright and flavorful. üü+
Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Kabinett 2000
Excellent nose of sun-warmed slate and smoke. Very intense flavors of lime, and lemon combine harmoniously with the wine's steely backbone to entice and invigorate the palate. Well-balanced and most enjoyable. üü+
Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese 2000
Nice, nice, nice. Wow, wow, wow. Powerful and weighty with loads of juicy, fruity flavor this gem is topped off with a delightfully tangy, zippy finish. Succulent, rich and dynamic, this is high quality stuff. üüü
Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese 2000
This is a wine of extraordinary proportion: Intoxicating bouquet, super sun-ripened grape flavor, and a razor-like acidity that pierces the palate with its sharp edge. This concentrated elixir will continue to blossom for years to come. üüü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 2000
Bold and ripe, this monumental wine shows exotic fruit notes in the bouquet and taste. Essences of peach, vanilla with hints of orange blossom are found in the nose, while hints of peach custard topped off with caramel sauce can be found in the rich, succulent flavor. This captivating wine is enhanced by a core of super-ripe acidity. üüü
Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Beerenauslese 1997
This is an extraordinary achievement from this excellent producer. Four years old and still a baby, this wine shows no signs age. Bright light yellow in color with a nose of sun-warmed raisins drenched in honey. Huge in flavor with hints of butterscotch and vanilla custard, this wine is harmoniously balanced by a superb level of acidity, allowing this jewel to age for years to come. üüü
Wwe. Dr. Thanisch Estate Riesling 2000
Here is a charming little gem from this esteemed producer. Wonderful yeasty hints in the nose with a touch of apple essence, this delightful wine has excellent flavors of apple and peach. Rich and delicious, it is topped off with a dryish finish. Super value! üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2000
Inviting nose of exotic fruits that is carried forward into the flavor of the wine. Big and bold for a Mosel Kabinett, with a taste of super-ripe grapes, this yummy wine packs a powerful punch and doesn't give up. Look for this wine to develop more enticing characteristics over time. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2000
This elegant wine has a wonderful bouquet that reminds me of Juicy Fruit gum - sweet, tangy and juicy. Fabulous hints of smoked minerals in the flavor are enhanced by the zippy, fruity notes, which make for a very tasty wine. üü+
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 2000
Very well-crafted wine here, with a dynamic level of sophistication. Superb flavors of minerals and lemons offer a bittersweet essence that captivate the palate. With its spicy and long finish, this Kabinett displays excellent balance and harmony. üü+
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese 2000
This is a real "smoker"! With its smoky character both in nose and flavor, this wine displays the true character of the slate soil in which the Riesling grapes are grown. Captivating in style and definition, this treasure increases in complexity by the addition of its spicy and exotic fruit notes. This beauty has a wonderful depth of flavor and an everlasting finish. üüü
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese 2000
Yum, yum. Dryish in style for an Auslese and somewhat light and delicate, sleek and refined. No bruiser here, rather a graceful ballerina, gliding weightlessly across the dance floor. Utterly charming. üü+
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese LGA 2000
With its delightful nose, excellent flavors and outstanding acidity, this stunning wine has it all. The scintillating flavors of sweet, juicy Sultana raisins combined with vanilla custard make for an otherworldly experience on the palate. The scorching acidity just adds to the extraordinary character of this monumental wine. This is a winner. üüü
Having recently tasted the 2000 vintage wines from the Terry Theise German wine portfolio, it appears to be a vintage of superb wines, limited primarily to the Kabinett and Spätlese levels. It was a small and difficult vintage for many producers, so the wines from Auslese and above were few and far between. Those that were produced appear to be of excellent quality, however, with rich extract and balanced acidity. Here is a selection of wines tasted that merit special attention.
________________________________
TROCKEN
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett trocken 2000, Selbach-Oster
- M-S-R
This little gem from Selbach-Oster tastes like chewing on a slightly unripe apple. Leesy and dryish with wonderful grip and a most expressive character. üü
Neustadter Möchgarten Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken 2000, Müller-Catoir - Pfalz
Where on Earth does one find Pinot Blanc like this one? This esteemed producer really made a beauty here, with its wonderful balance and incredible length . Dry and mouth-filling flavors of mineral and citrus which are enhanced by a spicy and succulent finish. üü+
Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Kabinett trocken 2000, Müller-Catoir - Pfalz
Amazing complexity with style and grace, this dry wine offers hints of flowers and minerals in the bouquet, and envelops the palate with its fabulously long and spicy flavor. üü+
KABINETT
Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Kabinett 1999, Hofmann-Simon - M-S-R
Lovely, with a spicy note in the nose with flavors of 7Up soda and mineral, this wine has a delightful, prickly finish.üü
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2000, Selbach-Oster - M-S-R
Pretty nose with hints of mineral and apple. Wonderful sleek flavors of apple rind, yeast and slate that are balanced beautifully by the wine's high-toned acidity. Very, very pretty wine. üüü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 2000, Selbach-Oster - M-S-R
Wonderful aromas of papaya and herbs, with ripe flavors that are accentuated by the underlying minerality of the wine, coming from the Schlossberg's slate soil. Excellent balance here, with a scintillating finish. üüü
Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Kabinett 2000, Strub - Rheinhessen
Great aroma in this wine with hints of sage and hot, sun-drenched rock, it really captivates the senses. The taste of lime, peach and mineral glide smoothly across the palate with excellent grace. This is a beauty. üü+
Dürkheimer Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett 2000, Darting - Pfalz
This is a real thirst quencher of a wine. Nice broad flavors with a bouquet to match. Not overly sophisticated, but a pleasure to drink.
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2000, Joh. Jos. Christoffel - M-S-R
Wonderfully crisp and zippy with its brilliant, bright and broad aroma that carries into the invigorating, intoxicating and incredible flavor of this superb wine. So sleek, so refined. üü
SPÄTLESE
Maringer Honigsberg Riesling Spätlese 1999, Hofmann-Simon - M-S-R
Here is a pretty wine produced from a rather obscure vineyard that sits in a valley, not far from the Mosel River. Broad and juicy in flavor, with hints of mango and ginger, this is an appealing wine that has a nice fresh and zippy finish. ü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2000, Selbach-Oster - M-S-R
Marvelous nose to this sleek wine, with delicious hints of cassis and cherry. Ripe and wonderfully flavorful with its juicy, Granny Smith apple, and limey taste.
Yummy! üü+
Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese 2000, Selbach-Oster - M-S-R
Wow, great nose - cherry and smoked mineral. Crisp and enticing flavors of ripe cherry and ginger sing on the palate, picking up a turbo charge at the end with the wine's super-crisp acidity. üü+
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2000, J.J. Christoffel - M-S-R
As usual from this outstanding producer, this is a wine of extraordinary balance and finesse. Enticing slatey nose with flavors of apple rind and lemon zest. Superb acidity dances on the palate to add extra dimension. üüü
Dürkheimer Spielberg Scheurebe Spätlese 2000, Darting - Pfalz
What a wonderful nose of grapefruit and gooseberry. This wine is rich and grapey with flavors of orange and grapefruit. Nice alternative to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. üü+
Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Spätlese 2000, Strub - Rheinhessen
Isn't this a lovely wine from the Rheinhessen with its delightful nose of cardamon and other spices. I love the lime/peach flavor of this wine, which is enhanced by the acidity, with its the invigorating crispiness. Nice! üü
AUSLESE
Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Auslese 1999, von Schleinitz - M-S-R
This attractive wine was tasted before with a similar flavor profile and quality rating. Please refer to the von Schleinitz tasting notes of 18 April 2001. With a little more time in the bottle, the character of the wine is now better integrated. Pretty aroma of pineapple and cream with hints of botrytis. Here is a well-balanced wine that tastes of ripe tropical fruit compote with a pineapple sauce poured on top. üü
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*** 2000, Selbach-Oster - M-S-R
Yikes! This is superb stuff here. Wonderful butterscotch/carmel notes in the bouquet with an added element of super-ripe grapes just picked off the vine. Monumental flavors of Sultana raisins and spiced oranges, with an electrifying level of acidity to seer the insides of your mouth. This is a gem. üüü+
Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Auslese 2000, Darting - Pfalz
Super-ripe and concentrated with botrytis in the nose. Ripe grapefruit and custard flavors with great length. üü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 2000, J.J. Christoffel - M-S-R
Yeasty, slatey zippy nose with no hint of over saturated richness for an Auslese. Delicate and extremely well-balanced flavors intermingle deftly to create a wine of superb finesse. No bruiser here, rather a race horse ready to run. üüü
TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE
Dürkheimer Nonnengarten Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese 2000, Darting - Pfalz
Honied nose with hints of sun-dried raisins. Super-ripe flavors of prunes and cinnamon coat the palate with a succulent syrupy richness, making this a deliciously intoxicating wine. üü
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1999
This estate continues to produce some of the most spellbinding wines in Germany if not on Earth. Not for mere mortals, the Prüm wines reach heights that dazzle the mind with such whimsy and finesse that they send you into orbit with incredible delight.
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett smells delicious with its juicy, fruity notes and hints of hops and lemon rind. Flavors of mineral, lime and peach dance on the palate, gliding smoothly and gracefully to a captivating finish. Simply a gorgeous wine from this fabled producer.
Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese 1999, Karlsmühle - M-S-R
What a gorgeous wine this is. Huge extract, voluminous fruit, with intense flavors of apricot and vanilla, this majestic wine may easily be a declassified Auslese. Here is a wine with such power and ripe acidity, that it startles the palate! This is a classic wine from a great producer. üüü
Hochheimer Domdechaney Spätlese 1998, Schloss Schönborn - Rheingau
Schloss Schönborn is an ancient Rheingau wine estate, dating back to 1349 when the von Schönborn family purchased its first vineyards. Today it is the largest private wine estate in the Rheingau, with holdings in some of the region's best vineyard sites. Now in the extremely capable hands of the estate's wine director, Günther Thies, this estate is producing wines of excellent quality, and the Hochheimer Domdechaney Spätlese 1998 is a prime example of this man's talents.
This is a gorgeous wine offering power, richness and outstanding balance. Pale straw in color, and demonstrating a medium viscosity, the wine has a wonderful nose of ripe melon and vanilla. Excellent intensity in flavor, with hints of lime, ginger and vanilla extract, which is harmoniously balanced by the invigorating acidity. üü+
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Kabinett 1993
Absolute perfection in Nahe Kabinett. 8 years old and still as youthful looking as a wine made from last year's vintage! The appearance is a vibrant color of light straw, with light-medium viscousity. Aromas of butterscotch, licorice and popcorn simply explode from the glass.The taste is of vivid mineral intensity, combined with sleek, smoky, lime-pineapple elements, making this an absolute sensation to the palate. üüü
Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Kabinett 1999
After tasting this incredible wine, one can see why Helmut Dönnhoff, proprietor of this Nahe estate, was named "winemaker of the year" by the German wine publication, Gault-Millau. By all standards, this is one of the best producers in Germany.
The bouquet memorizes the senses, with a smell of succulent tropical fruits which have been coated with a spicy ginger sauce. A sleek and slender wine, it offers beautiful notes of peach and pineapple with a touch of allspice and ginger, enhanced by the crisp, minerally acidity. This stunning wine will develop even more complexity as it continues to age. üü+
Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Kabinett 1999
Here is a wonderfully distinctive wine from the Lower Mosel region, with loads of charm. Hints of apple and mineral in the nose with crisp flavors of apple custard sprinkled with lemon zest and powdered sugar. üü
Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Spätlese 1999
The wines from this excellent producer always put a smile on my face, because of their whimsical charm and purity. Here is a perfect example of my critique. Utterly charming with a scent of sun-drenched daffodils and warmed slate. Powerful, yet elegant and pure, this wine tastes of juicy Granny Smith apples with a dash of lime. Lots of acidity in the finish gives this wine a real kick. üü+
Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Auslese 1999
Very aromatic, with apricot, peach and mineral flavors up front, followed by a succulent crisp and citrusy finish. This invigorating wine is one that can be enjoyed for immediate consumption, but will improve in character and complexity if cellared for a few more years. üü+
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** 1999
This is a fabulous Auslese from one Germany's best wine estates. The Selbach family owns the best parcels of this outstanding vineyard, located next to the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and this majestic wine displays what thrilling flavors can be achieved in the right hands, given the proper growing conditions.
A wine of immense proportions, a wine of sleek elegance, this wine has it all. Rich and viscous, with a bouquet of vanilla, honeysuckle, with a hint of caramel, this yummy wine is definitely produced from extremely ripe grapes. While the flavors are succulent and mouth coating, tasting of sun-dried raisins and vanilla icing, the wine keeps an incredible delicacy throughout, with its gorgeous, crisp and invigorating finish. This is a beauty. üüü+
Lorenzhöfer Riesling halbtrocken 1999
Oh, so polished, with great, dynamic character. This wine has a typical Ruwer nose, which is minerally and herbal, with an added dimension of malted wheat. The dryish flavors of wheat berries and lime juice are enhanced by the outstanding crunchy acidity which provides a long, long finish. üü
Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese 1999
What a gorgeous wine this is. Huge extract, voluminous fruit, with intense flavors of apricot and vanilla, this majestic wine may easily be a declassified Auslese. Here is a wine with such power and ripe acidity, that it startles the palate! This is a classic wine from a great producer. üüü
Lorenzhöfer Auslese 1999
Juicy, juicy! Rich succulent, sweet flavors of ginger ale, honeysuckle and mango, this wine packs a powerful punch in the finish with is crisp, zesty acidity.üü+
Lorenzhöfer Riesling Eiswein 1999
Brilliant winemaking here. Rich and viscous, with hints of Sultana raisins and butterscotch in the nose, this wine entices the palate with its flavors of creme caramel and papaya. With its spicy acidity and sugary fruit flavors, this magnificent Eiswein is built to age for years. üü+
Kasteler Kehrnmagel Riesling Eiswein 1998
Sweet dried raisins, with a dash of maple syrup in the nose, this is almost the perfection in Eiswein. Mouth coating richness, with a flavor of a vanilla sundae smothered with butterscotch, this multidimensional elixir fascinates the palate with a dance of brilliant acidity. üüü
Scheurebe Spätlese 1999
Here is a great little wine made from the Scheurebe grape. This invigoratingly flavorful wine has a wonderful bouquet of ripe grapefruit and gooseberry, with flavors of honeydew melon and pink grapefruit, which are enhanced by the deliciously crisp and zippy acidity. Charming. ü
Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Eiswein 1998
The Pittersberg is an outstanding vineyard in the Nahe, and this fine producer clearly demonstrates the quality that can be achieved from this great site. This is a hugely extracted wine, with a viscosity similar to that of maple syrup. Intense hints of toffee, caramel and vanilla in the nose, with flavors of Sultana raisins, vanilla, and tapioca, this wine has it all. Built to age for decades. üü+
"Pfaffenberger" Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese 1997 Schloss Schönborn - Rheingau
My goodness me, what a superb wine from the Rheingau. Now three years old, this gorgeous wine tastes as youthful as ever. Such intensity in the bouquet with its mineral and smoked apple notes, that the wine's aromas explode from the glass. The spicy hints of ginger, clove and nutmeg combine beautifully with the fruit notes of peach and tangerine, giving the wine a smorgasbord of taste sensations. This is a wine of stupendous character. üüü
TROCKEN
Deidesheimer Mäushöle Riesling Spätlese trocken 1999, Biffar - Pfalz Sleek for a Pfalz wine with a wonderful lime and mineral note both in the bouquet and flavor. The crisp acidity adds to the dry character of the wine, allowing for a beautiful, harmonious finish. ü
KABINETT
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 1999, J. J. Christoffel - M-S-R
Here is an excellent wine with a fabulous smell of orange and apple. Delicious flavors of mineral, orange rind and Granny Smith apple, with an invigoratingly crisp finish. üü
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 1999, W. Haag - M-S-R
Nice nose of peach and apricot, with a powerful, earthy flavor. Clean and zippy in the finish. ü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 1999, J.J. Christoffel - M-S-R
Nice and spicy with elements of mineral, lemon zest and strawberry in the aroma. Excellent and delicious flavor of a lemon meringue pie that is made with a delicate touch. üü
Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Kabinett 1999, J.u.H.A. Strub - Rheinhessen
Wow, here is a tasty little morsel. This wine offers a wonderful, smoky nose with hints of summer-ripened cherries. There are elements of spice and mango in the flavor, which is surrounded by a marvelous, crispy finish. üü
SPÄTLESE
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1999, W. Haag - M-S-R
Slightly finer than the Juffer Kabinett, with a wonderful nose, and succulent, rich and exotic fruit flavor. Lovely balance and long lasting flavor. üü
KABINETT
Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Kabinett 1999, Strub - Rheinhessen
A very attractive wine from this marvelous producer. This is a refined wine offering wonderful smoky and mineral notes both in the bouquet and flavor. Excellent richness and density with a crispy finish. ü+
Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Kabinett 1999, Biffar - Pfalz
Wow, here is a wine that is packed with loads of flavor and spice. In the nose, there is a dash of earth and spice with a dab of mineral. The wine tastes of cinnamon, nutmeg with an overlay of crushed minerals. The finish is long, with a real zip of acidity that pushes out the flavors. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 1999, Selbach-Oster - M-S-R
Having tasted this wine at the Selbach-Oster Estate back in May, it is interesting to see how well the Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett has filled out and developed in a few months. This wine displays more polish and dynamics than previously tasted, with a really crunchy apple essence that is intermingled with a pear and lime flavor. More extract is evident with a sleek and tingling finish. This wine deserves another ü for the added dimension it displays. üü
SPÄTLESE
Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Spätlese 1999, von Schleinitz - M-S-R
The wines from this producer have one common trait - they always put a smile on your face! These estate wines are some of the best values one is going to find from anywhere in Germany. The Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Spätlese is a perfect example of this quality. The bouquet is fabulous, with a scent of freshly pressed apple juice. The rich and juicy-sweet flavor of apple and lime is interwoven with a crisp and racy acidity to create a wine of lovely balance. üü
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Having recently returned from a trip to Germany and having tasted some 70 wines of the 1999 vintage from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Rheingau districts, it appears the wines overall are full of rich, ripe fruit with an attractive undercurrent of spicy acidity. Some producers seemed to have hit their stride, making wines of incredible stature and finesse, while others produced wines of a rather soft and fruity character, which are wonderful for early consumption.Here are some of the highlights.
Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett trocken 1999
Excellent wine with a lovely spicy bouquet with hints of yeast. This dry wine offers flavors of ripe peaches and minerals, with an assertively crisp finish. ü
Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett trocken 1999
A wine of lovely balance. Hints of peach and apricot are evident both in the aroma and taste. The flavor is broadened by the expansive acidity which allows for a wonderfully long finish. üü
Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett 1999
Great wine here, with a fantastic bouquet of exotic fruits and oriental spices. The wine tastes of baked apples with cinnamon sprinkled on top. Outstanding acidity adds an extra dimension, which creates a wonderful synergy to the wine. üü+
Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese 1998
Wonderful nose of overripe grapes, hinting of botrytis, or noble rot. Delicious flavors of dried apricots and peaches that are interwoven with a dollop crisp acidity. üü
Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese 1999
Different style from the 1998 vintage. The smoldering, wet stony elements in the nose give this wine a style reminiscent of a premier cru Chablis. Rich and powerful in flavor, with an exotic fruit note combined with crushed minerals, give this wine a scintillating character. üü
Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Auslese 1999
What a wonderful nose of honey and honeydew melon. This is an excellent Auslese, with an outstanding intensity of flavor. Ripe and succulent and tasting of a honeydew parfait with heavy cream poured on top, this wine has an excellent finish that is very long and intense. üüü
Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Beerenauslese 1999
Very intense nose that smells like a pear eau-de-vie, this magnificent wine has extraordinary proportions. The gorgeous, mouth-filling flavors of honey and dried papaya are enwrapped with ripe acidity that pushes the finish to incredible longevity. This is a wine of rich viscosity, that coats the mouth with a panorama of wonderful flavors. üüü
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken 1999
Nice character in this wine, with a bold flavor of herbs and vanilla extract that finishes on the dry side. This is a very harmonious wine with lovely balance. üü
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 1999
Light in color with a creamy, peachy bouquet. The flavor is a little soft, but refreshing, nonetheless.
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1999
This wine has a vivacious nose of Granny Smith apples which is carried forward into the flavor. Good, crisp acidity helps to lengthen dynamics of the wine, which allows for an attractive finish. ü
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1998
Typical of the 1998 vintage, here is a wine of excellent stature, with a dazzling aroma of wet stone and smoked apple. The ripe extract in this wine provides rich and succulent flavors that are beautifully integrated with the invigorating acidity. This wine is very well-balanced. üü
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese 1999
Nice wine from the 1999 vintage, with a malted corn hint in the bouquet. Also, there appears to be evidence of botrytis in the wine, which gives an impression of
lush ripeness both in the aroma and flavor. This Auslese is dryish in character with a flavor that is strongly enhanced by the velvety richness. üü
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1998
With an excellent nose of chalk and botrytis, this wine is sublimely invigorating. There is a sleek personality here, with a refined and delicate nature that is extremely harmonious. üü+
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1994
Here is a little gem of a wine. There is a nice color of deep straw. Wonderful hints of fresh cream can be found in the bouquet, with flavors of earth, cream and honey. Brilliant balance. üü+
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 1993
Lovely light gold in color, this delicious wine displays an aroma of butterscotch and caramel, with a multidimensional flavor of a butterscotch sundae, sprinkled with raisins. üü
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1999
Transparent in color, with a wonderful malted wheat note in the bouquet, this powerful wine displays a flavor of ripe Red Delicious apples smothered with lime slices. The finish is very long, with plenty of acidity to pack a punch to the taste buds. ü
Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 1999
Same color as the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, but with a more smoky and mineral note in the aroma and flavor. Excellent balance and power, with an extraordinary finish. üü
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 1999
Brilliant vaporous color, with loads of spicy, peach notes in the bouquet, this muscular wine packs a rich and potent flavor of an apple and peach sorbet that lingers in the mouth for minutes. Another winner from this fine estate. üü
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 1999
Translucent, but so rich in character that it is almost un-Mosel like. This is obviously declassified Auslese with a ripe apple custard-like flavor, with loads of yeasty, malted wheat hints in the finish. Yummy. üü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 1999
Wow! Earth-mineral nose, with huge flavor that is filled with a baked apple essence.This is a significantly powerful wine with extraordinary finesse. üüü
Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1999
This wine is big, bold and broad, with an aroma of a melted cream sickle - orange, cream and sugar. Loads of flavor, with hints of cream, honey, orange peel and spice.The finish is long and filled with opulent, crisp acidity which broadens out the flavors. üü
Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese 1999
The Prälat is such a marvelous vineyard, producing wines of power and body, and this wine is a perfect expression of what this fabled vineyard can achieve.
Huge extract in this wine, with a bouquet of spice, honey, malted wheat, and tropical fruit. Lovely. Immense flavor which displays a smorgasbord of ripe fruits and candied toppings. üüü+
Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 1999
Exotic aromas of earth, damp pine needles, and caramel, this is a tour de force. The ripe peach and butterscotch flavors are coated with hints of caramel and spice. Beautiful structure and a splendid and lengthy finish. üüü
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese trocken 1999
Light straw-green color, with a delightful crisp Granny Smith apple aroma, this wine offers a wonderful dry flavor of crunchy apple bits and wet slate. ü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 1999
Lovely translucent color, with a hint of slate and pear in the bouquet. The flavors provide an attractive pear and lime character, with a lovely long finish. ü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 1999
Almost colorless, but don't let this fool you. Intense mineral essence in the nose with hints of lemon zest. Here is a wine of lovely finesse, with flavors of lemons, Granny Smith apples and smoky minerals, balanced by a long and delightfully crisp finish. üü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 1999
Light straw in color, here is a wine with a floral nose of lilac and daffodil, broadened out by hints of pear. Excellent flavors of ripe Bartlett pear and slate, with an invigorating finish of bright fruit acidity. üü
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese #15 1999
Light straw color, with a full ripe nose of tangerines and malted wheat. Hints of crushed wheat berries and ripe citrus fruits are enhanced by a finish that is long and strong! üü
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 1994
Lemon color in the wine, with a wonderful smoky and mineral nose, this wine shows flavors of slate and spice with a marvelous long, crisp finish. üü+
Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese #5 1999
Lovely light yellow, with an excellent nose of mineral and lime. Wonderful licorice and wet stone hints in flavor that really explode in the mouth. Beautiful crisp and invigorating acidity enhances the power flavors. üü
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese* 1999
Brilliant light yellow, this wine displays a rich, earthy bouquet that has power and outstanding structure. The tropical fruit flavor of the wine is harmoniously balanced by the broad earthy character which expands in the mouth for minutes. This is a wine of "earthy" delight. üü+
Zeltinger Himmelreich Auslese 1976
Brilliant light gold, with a gorgeous bouquet of cream, nutmeg and honey, it is a wine of long, long length, having flavors of a butterscotch sundae with honey on top. üü+
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1975
Lovely color that displays a brilliant straw gold element. The wonderful creamy, mineral aroma is carried forward into the flavor of the wine, which also includes hints of peaches. The finish is still so vibrant and incredibly long. üüü
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 1999
Pale yellow, with a wonderful aroma of cream and butterscotch. This wine has such beautiful definition with hints of toffee, caramel, and cream that you can't stop drinking it. Exotic, powerful and thrilling. üüü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 1999
Pale yellow-green, there is an attractive aroma of cherry and slate, with a nice rich, almost full flavor in the wine which finishes a little on the soft side.
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 1998
A touch more yellow than the 1999, with an excellent nose of chalk, slate and apple, the wine shows excellent grip and acidity with a most attractive flavor of lemons and Red Delicious apples. ü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 1999
Absolutely translucent color here, with a nice, fleeting bouquet of smoke and mineral. Flavors of lime and apple are enhanced by a crisp and invigorating dollop of acidity. ü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 1998
Better than the 1999, with a more intense character of flavor. Sleek and refined, with a mineral and slate flavor, this wine finishes big and bold. This wine is very well structured. üü
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese 1999
This is a nice 1999 from this fabled estate. A wine of excellent definition and structure, it offers flavors of ginger and pear which is also found in the bouquet. Excellent acidity that pushes the delicious flavors forward, allowing the wine to linger in the mouth for minutes. üü+
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese 1999
Nice brilliant straw in color, the wine is rather soft with a rather Juicy Fruit Gum-like flavor and aroma. There are also hints of apple cobbler in the flavor, but not enough acidity to really push the wine to another level.
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese LGK 1999
Much the better wine at the auslese level, and it should be. Hints of ripe botrytis in the nose with a wonderful smoky element, the flavors are sleek and intense, with the botrytis character just giving off little hints. A nice dash of mineral and raisin add to the complexity of this highly extracted wine. üü
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 1995
Slight lemon peal color with a beautiful nose of peaches, cream and minerals, this lovely 1995 has a beautiful flavor of a peach tart sprinkled with cinnamon on top. üü
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After tasting hundreds of 1998 German wines throughout the year, by most standards, the wines are of outstanding quality, and certainly live up to the expectations expressed by many other wine professionals. Overall, the wines have displayed wonderful extract of flavor, balanced by extraordinary levels of acidity. The 1998 vintage offers the opportunity for many wines to develop beautifully in the years to come. Patience will be the great reward.
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The Grand European Wine Tasting event was held in New York City, with some 50 German producers in attendance. As stated in the paragraph above, the overall quality of the 1998 wines tasted were of excellent quality, showing wonderful balance and harmony.
There were so many wines to taste, that I decided to choose carefully and sample the wines that I would expect to shine brightly. This, therefore, represents only a small sampling of what I tasted.
KABINETT
Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling 1998, Emrich-Schönleber
From the Nahe, this winery continues to impress with its Mosel-like raciness in its wines. Because of the reddish-colored slate found in the Frühlingsplätzchen vineyard, there is a definite mineral, smoky element in the nose which is carried forward in the flavor of the wine. The excellent extract provides a dynamic interplay of fruit and acidity which allows the wine to linger in the mouth for minutes. This is a wonderful wine from the Nahe, with such a whimsical character that this winery often seems to display in its wines. ü+
Dürkheimer Abtsfronhof Riesling halbtrocken 1998, Fitz-Ritter
Here is a winner of a wine. Fitz-Ritter from the Pfalz pulled this one off because of the dimension of this dryish wine. Hugely intense with a mineral, lemon zest nose, it displays an even more diverse character of flavor with mineral extract and citrus hints. The finish is very long with just a fabulous level of acidity to balance it all together. üü
Hattenheimer Schützenhaus Riesling 1998, Balthasar Ress
From the Rheingau comes this well-crafted wine. Ress always seems to excel from this vineyard, having made a brilliant 1997 Kabinett, and the 1998 is even better. This wine defines the elegance that one can find in fine Rheingau wines.
Excellent structure with loads of spice, there is even a hint of peach and violet in the flavor. The finish is very long, with a deft touch of citrus rid in the back. Very nice wine. üü
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling 1998, Max Ferd. Richter
I like this man, Dr. Dirk Max Ferd. Richter, and have had the pleasure of knowing him for many years. His wines had never been better, with those from 1997 being absolutely wonderful. There was such a great balance of fruit to acidity in those wines, which provided a real charm to their character. The 1998 vintage here is another winner. Overall, broader in style that the 1997 wines, but with substance to back up the fruit. The Graacher Himmelreich is a great starting point at this estate. It is a charming wine with a vanilla, creamy nose with a hint of red delicious apples. In the mouth there is a nice interplay of mineral, cream and apple peal which is enhanced by a crispy level of acidity. Not terribly long, but most enjoyable. ü
Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling 1998, von Hövel
This is one of the great producers from the Saar, whose wines always show incredible finesse. This wine is no exception. The Kabinett from this monopole vineyard offers a wonderful bouquet of mineral and lemon zest, with a zippy, racy flavor, hinting of lemon-lime and citrus notes with fine acidity in the back. Sleek and refined. ü
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling 1998, von Kesselstatt
The great Piesporter Goldtröpfchen vineyard from the Mittelmosel sits in an amphitheater along the river which is a most impressive site. In this majestic vineyard, perfect exposure to the sun allows the grapes to ripen beautifully throughout the long growing season. The levels of ripeness found here provide wines of outstanding grace and beauty. So we have it with the von Kesselstatt
Goldtröpfchen Kabinett. Here is a wine of excellent mineral and peachy hints in the nose, with a delicate floral, herbal note in flavor. Slightly round, but long enough in acidity to produce a wine of elegant balance. ü
SPÄTLESE
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling 1998, Emrich-Schönleber
The Halenberg sits right next to the Frühlingsplätzchen, but the soils are completely different. Whereas the Frühlingsplätzchen's soils are comprised of "Rotliegende" or a red-colored slate, the Halenberg is predominantly basalt and gravel. So the wines will taste differently. Here one can smell a whiff of sun-drenched slate with a ripe lime essence. The sleek flavor of mineral, lime and gunpowder is balanced by the wine's bracing acidity that really packs a wallop.
This is a really pleasant wine from the Nahe. üü
Dürkheimer Spielberg Chardonnay Trocken 1998, Fitz-Ritter
I had to taste this for the novelty of it, not because I am a Chardonnay fan. Far from it. As a curiosity, it has its merits, but I would prefer drink this estate's Rieslings or Gewürztraminers. Try it if you have never had a dry Chardonnay from Germany.
Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling 1998, Gunderloch
The wines from this estate always show great structure, and the Rothenberg Spätlese is no exception. High in extract and full in flavor, the wine smells of an exotic fruit salad, with a hint of whipped cream on top. Just when you think that the wine is going to disappear in flavor, you get a nice kick from the acidity which makes the wine a most invigorating treat. ü
AUSLESE
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling 1998, Max. Ferd Richter
Wow, this is a really superb wine. As one would expect from the Juffer vineyard, this is a wine with strength and power, at the same time, harmonized by purpose-built elegance. Loads of slaty, citrus, malted-wheat essence in the nose, with a persistent hint of peach and citrus rind in the flavor. Huge, ripe acidity gives this gorgeous wine a breathtaking finish. üüü
Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling 1998, Gunderloch
Here is a beauty of an Auslese, with an intensely ripe character. You can smell the ripeness of the grapes with a honey-coated, sweet pineapple dessert chopped with figs. Intense and immortal. üü+
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling LGK 1998, J.J. Prüm
This may have been the best wine of the tasting. This wine is so pure and multidimensional that it reaches an almost ethereal, unreachable level of quality. So seductive is this wine, with its mineral, lime, and honeyed-apricot flavors which are surrounded by an incredible level of acidity that it scorches one's mouth. But you just want to have more. This is a remarkable achievement in wine making, a true piece of art. üüü+
EISWEIN
Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg Riesling 1998, Balthasar Ress
A wine of rich intensity, with loads of ripe botrytis, giving it a wonderful honey-caramel nose with flavors of ripe apricots and hazelnuts. This is a refined wine which keeps all the sweet fruit and honeyed character in total balance with its invigoratingly fresh and persistent crisp mineral acidity. üü+
Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spätlese 1993, Toni Jost
This wine comes from the Mittelrhein district of Germany, which is one of the most picturesque viticultural areas in the world. The vineyards sit along the banks of the Rhine River, and are some of the steepest in Germany. It is hard to believe that man could possibly cultivate grapes in these precipitous sites. However, the Riesling grape grows to perfection in this magnificent area, reaching a magnitude of flavors that only this aristocratic grape can attain.
Mr. Jost makes some of the finest wines in the Mitttelrhein. The level of concentration that his wines reach is truly amazing. This is due to his ownership of land in the great vineyard, the Bacharacher Hahn, and his talent as a winemaker. Few can match this man’s ability to extract the flavor and concentration that he can. This wine demonstrates his artistry, as it shows a wonderful, rich and peachy aroma, with a powerful, ripe spicy flavor of apricot and mango. The finish of the wine is well-defined, with a long and very spicy aftertaste.
Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 1994, Selbach-Oster
The Zeltinger Himmelreich vineyard is a large and mostly, very steep vineyard that overlooks the beautiful Mosel River. The wines that are produced from this area known as the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer,have a finesse and delicacy that no other wine district in the world can match. There is an unmistakable ethereal quality that separates these wines from others produced from the Riesling grape. The Himmelreich vineyard located in the town of Zeltingen-Rachtig produces grapes that are capable of mesmerizing the taster with sheer delight, especially when produced by the fabled Selbach-Oster winery. This illustrious producer is now considered to be one of the best estates in the entire region.
The color of the wine does not give one the impression of what lies ahead! Almost colorless, with a slight green/yellow hue, the wine begins to unravel itself after one smell from the glass. There is a wonderful bouquet, with a hint of lime and apple, that is, in itself, intoxicating. The wine is light-bodied, but the flavor is rich in intensity. Lots of minerals and Granny Smith apples develop in the taste, which is balanced by the high level of acidity in the finish. This is a beautiful wine, indeed.
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Kabinett 1993, Dönnhoff
The Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle vineyard is one best vineyards in Germany, and the quiet and softspoken Helmut Dönnhoff is one of Germany’s best wine producers. Mr. Dönnhoff’s winery is located in the Nahe, a viticultural district which is sandwiched between the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and the Rheinhessen wine regions. Looking out his front window, one can see the incredible Hermannshöhle vineyard. This is an extremely steep site, that has perfect exposure to the sun’s rays. This allows the grapes to ripen extremely well, giving them extra richness and power. The vineyard also has a special soil known as“Rotliegende”, a certain reddish sandstone that imparts a smokiness and earthiness to the flavor of the wine.
This wine is absolutely first-class. The aroma of the wine is sensational, with a ripe orange and lemon zest note. There is also a hint of smokiness in there as well. The dryish flavors are of mineral, earth, cassis and orange, are balanced by a ripe tang of acidity. Splendid!
Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken 1993, Biffar
This wine comes from the Pfalz region, which is the most exciting area in Germany today. The wines from this esteemed district are powerful, rich, and just downright opulent. However, all this ripeness is “German Style”! These wines are big for German wines, but never obtuse and offensively rich like wines from other countries. These wines are EXCITING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The Pfalz wines are like seductive white Burgundies. Finesse, balance, wonderful fruit flavor, harmonious character are some of the elements one looks for in these wines. Deidesheim is considered to be one of the greatest wine towns in the Pfalz. This is a gorgeous little town, surrounded by world-class vineyards, the Herrgottsacker being one of them. The rising star of the area is the Biffar estate.
This wine is monumental for a wine so delicate. There are hints of wood, mineral and malted wheat in the nose. In the flavor, there are hints of wet stone, spice, and apple blossom. This wine definitely shows more spice and smoke in the off-dry finish. Great acidity balances out the ravishing fruit, providing perfect harmony.
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